xantia td a/c heater blower not working help

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 08 Jul 2005, 04:33

hi guys
well when i first brought my xantia a few weeks back the heater blower motor was wired with an off/on switch the transistor pack on the blower was bypassed and i was told by the previus owner that the fan speed controller (switch on dash) had gone anyway got a new motor and fan speed controller today and then found out what he,d done was to cut the origanal plugs off for the blower then put this makeshift switch in its place so the origanal wire,s are just hanging lose and cut off anyway what i propose to do is go to a scrappy and cut the blower plugs off a car with air con complete with the loom as much as i can get anyway then follow the colours from that on to my car hoping the colours are the same, then splice it in so my question is does anyone here have a wiring diagram for the blower to the switch that i can follow incase the colours are different in the (new loom).
pete.................................

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 09 Jul 2005, 01:46

hi guys
well ive remade the wiring loom back into its original state now a new problem the (new) heater blower won,t run when switched on now ive checked the main power feed and thats giving 14v from the battery now the other two small leads on the plug are givig about 13 v but the output to the motor from the resistor on the (new secondhand one) is about 5v when the switch is on max and the origanal motor when tested in the same way is giving about 3v so i am right in saying the both motors or at least the resistors are knackerd what do you think guys.
pete..........................

Post by **Peter.N.** » 09 Jul 2005, 13:50

Have you tried it with the engine running?

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 09 Jul 2005, 16:02

hi peter
yes i have.
pete................

Post by **Peter.N.** » 09 Jul 2005, 19:49

Ah! right, only I got cought like that with my XM. Have you repaired or replaced the blower motor? did you test it before you fitted it? Do you have 12v on the thick red lead and is the black one earthed securely? If the motor is OK and there is voltage on the main feed it must be that the controller is not supplying voltage to the transistors, thats the thin lead. If you have a meter connect it to that lead and vary the temperature control and you should have a small varying voltage, only 2 or 3 volts or less, but it should vary. Try all that and see how you get on, and let me know.
Peter.

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 10 Jul 2005, 00:53

hi thanks peter
there are 2 thin wire,s one brown and one white wich one should i try one or both together. anyway i,ll try both and see what i get
i,ll let you know how i get on.
pete........................

Post by **Peter.N.** » 10 Jul 2005, 02:22

Sorry! I had forgotten about the other one, I think it is the brown one but check both.
Peter.

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 10 Jul 2005, 04:25

hi peter
well tonight ive tried the volt test on both and i got a reading of 11 volts on both wires but this was between the two of them no change in voltage though although i had one suprising thing happen on fiddleing with the connections on the original motor it started although running at full speed so this was a result in itself so this afternoon thinking i had more problems when it would,nt work i took the other motor back and got my money back so tommorrow im going to get the motor back from the scappy and try again he has two in stock and neather worked this afternoon thats why i took them back now i find out its connections you see the guy that owned the car before cut the original plugs off so ive had to remake them from part of a blower motor loom from a scrap xantia wich had aircon and spliced the plugs back on so its back to origanal and the guy in the yard said the motor was working ok in the car before they scraped it ive also had the dash switches as well and fitted those in my car ill let you know how i get on. i also never told you the aircon dont work so does that make a differance to it too. the fan switch has an auto setting and the heater side is electronically controled with numbers on it.
pete...............

Post by **Peter.N.** » 10 Jul 2005, 13:42

Firstly, I gave you the wrong information - sorry, I should have said 'vary the fan speed control' put it down to the age! you will need to measure the voltage from the lead to earth. I have looked in the haynes manual but it doesn't give the auto reg circuit. Yous sounds like the same system as in the XM which is the only one I have had problems with. I have not so far come across a faulty control unit, the problem has always been with the motor. If you connect a resistor of about 500 ohms between the red, positive lead on the motor and the control lead (brown?) the motor should run if OK.
Peter.

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 10 Jul 2005, 21:11

hi peter
thanks but do you mean the brown lead to earth ive got the motor back from the scrappy and found out that that dos,nt work [V] so i tried the resistor pack from that one on the original motor and then that did,nt work but my pack from the origanal motor did on the scrappys one so really im no further foward put everthing back as it was and take it back agian he,s going to love me but its faulty i tried both his motors on my car before i chose that one neather worked but that one kicked a bit but it did,nt start so i chose that one i just thought it was wireing but this proves its not when one works and the other don,t abit full speed as soon as you put ign on also ive cracked the fan on mine getting the resistor pack out [B)]so you can see im having some fun with it i can see me getting a motor thats garanteed to work for a lot more money cant put a resistor on it because fan broken but i will try the test you said but now i think the main problem here is the fan motor.
what do you think.
pete................................

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 10 Jul 2005, 23:32

hi agian
ok ive tried the volts test on the brown wire and it come,s up 11.07v constant even moving the blower switch.
pete..................

Post by **Peter.N.** » 11 Jul 2005, 04:40

What you need to do first is test the motor in the car at the scappies before you take it out, take a spare battery with you or some jump leads, in fact you could also test your original motor in it. If the motors are OK take the control panel out of the car as you will know the whole system is working. Have you done the same test on the white wire? A thought has just occured, maybe you cant test it in the car if you cant run the engine, also if the control lead is permanantly at 11 volts the fan will run flat out because it is switching the transistors hard on, try dissconecting the brown lead and if the motor then stop it is OK but the control panel is faulty.

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 11 Jul 2005, 04:59

hi pete
thanks yes ill give that a try i,ll remove the brown lead and see what happens. i,ll let you know
pete.................

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 12 Jul 2005, 00:28

hi peter thanks for your help
ok ive given that a try and no differance origanal fan still spins at full speed. (taken other motor back to scrappy and got money back agian) could,nt try motor in scrappys car as all fuses gone wires ripped out good idea though. i need a good motor that i know works ok cos the fan on mine is broken.
i contacted a citroen specilist today and he said it could be somthing to do the pink wire wich goes on to the little black lead on the motor its an earth lead i checked this to a good earth with my multi meter and got a good circut although a lot of people are saying its the transistor on the motor
any idea,s
pete.........................

Post by **Peter.N.** » 12 Jul 2005, 01:11

Yes, it probably is the transistors but you can prove it by running it with the brown wire disconnected, if it still runs flat out its the transistors, if it stops its the control panel. If it is the transistors I can give you type numbers and tell you haow to change them.
Peter.