One further thing to add- there are two types of balljoint splitter- one is a fork shaped thing that you put one prong either side of the ballpin and then whack with a hammer, or there is the hinged type which hooks on to the lower arm, and you then use use a socket on a nut bearing the other side of the 'hinge' to drive the ballpin out. Both harder to describe than to look at....
Be careful with either of them if you have not used one before- its easy to damage the rubber boot on the balljoint with the forked type, or the threads on the ballpin with the second type- if you use this type dont completely remove the nut, use it for the tool to bear on to rather than the threads themselves.
If you DO damage the balljoint or pin in some way[:(!],you will need to replace it and then you are in for even more fun than you have already taken on!!!
Use the car to undo the hub nut for you- big socket on the nut, long bar placed on the ground, and all held in place by an assistant- you can then VERY SLOWLY drive the car for a few inches backwards or forwards depending on which side you are loosening, and the hub nut will be held still by the bar and socket, and hence loosened with no effort.
BX 1.9D clutch change
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DoubleChevron
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Errrhh...
Tom -
Shane is working on his CX where he has no alternatives to the balljoint separator.
But you have an easier alternative [8)]
Tou can loosen the hub clamp bolt which keeps the suspension strut located inside the hub. Believe me ! - it's a lot less hassle this way when you nee to remove the driveshafts from the hubs. I just did it this way to remove the long shaft and bearing support - when I replaced the front HC on my turbo.
Tom -
Shane is working on his CX where he has no alternatives to the balljoint separator.
But you have an easier alternative [8)]
Tou can loosen the hub clamp bolt which keeps the suspension strut located inside the hub. Believe me ! - it's a lot less hassle this way when you nee to remove the driveshafts from the hubs. I just did it this way to remove the long shaft and bearing support - when I replaced the front HC on my turbo.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DoubleChevron</i>
I'm doing the same thing at the moment on my old CX... I've been taking lots of pictures (just incase I forget how it goes back together !!!!! ).
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/shane/cx2500 ... lutch1.htm
seeya,
Shane L.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">yes shane but you usuly take engine and box out to replace clutch on CXs regards malcolm
I'm doing the same thing at the moment on my old CX... I've been taking lots of pictures (just incase I forget how it goes back together !!!!! ).
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/shane/cx2500 ... lutch1.htm
seeya,
Shane L.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">yes shane but you usuly take engine and box out to replace clutch on CXs regards malcolm
My modest contribution:
If you need to release the lower balljoint from the arm (and you do not need to do so when only removing the driveshaft - the method suggested by AndersDK WORKS - I tried it when changing a boot) and the proper tool is not around, you can try this:
a) spray some WD40 or penetrating oil from above
b) undo the nut until the end of the bolt is recessed in the nut - DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT, you would damage the thread
c) support the nut with ordinary hydraulic bottle jack
d) get HEAVY hammer and a 1 m piece of steel (long chisel, pipe, whatever)
e) put its end on the protruding lug on the front side of the arm
f) use all your physical strength and give the lug a good whack via the steel bar from above.
(it may be necessary to remove the droplink from the arm first if the balljoint bolt is rust-welded).
Of course, if you have bought the separator already, the method described above is uselessly complicated [;)]
If you need to release the lower balljoint from the arm (and you do not need to do so when only removing the driveshaft - the method suggested by AndersDK WORKS - I tried it when changing a boot) and the proper tool is not around, you can try this:
a) spray some WD40 or penetrating oil from above
b) undo the nut until the end of the bolt is recessed in the nut - DO NOT REMOVE THE NUT, you would damage the thread
c) support the nut with ordinary hydraulic bottle jack
d) get HEAVY hammer and a 1 m piece of steel (long chisel, pipe, whatever)
e) put its end on the protruding lug on the front side of the arm
f) use all your physical strength and give the lug a good whack via the steel bar from above.
(it may be necessary to remove the droplink from the arm first if the balljoint bolt is rust-welded).
Of course, if you have bought the separator already, the method described above is uselessly complicated [;)]
You know, hitting things (while a passion and sport of mine) should ALWAYS be a last resort! There is more chance of injuring your self (when you miss or the car collapse), injuring the car (when it collapses on a half mast jack and goes through the floor pan) and perhaps more easily, you'll stuff the threads! And yes i know if your careful you'll be fine, 'rollocks', your male, you'll get carried away and use the divining rod to hit something expensive!
Personally i dont see the whole undoing the hub carrier as a good idea, for a start it will only let you move the hub back a short way, generally NOT giving enough playing room. If where talking about taking the hole shaft out and thus undoing the hub nut, then best of luck to you! The bottom joint nut WILL always come off with enough patience, but not the hub nut! I've had two now that have had to be cut off, the last one laughed at the impact wrench scoffed at my man power, didn't even wince when i headed it up so much the rubber of the ball joint and CV where melting, and the last straw was when i had a 2' breaker bar with 8' extension with a 16stone mate hanging of the end with my smacking it with a sledge hammer! I got a little emotional that day!
That said with the correct ball joint splitter (looks like two wedges hinged in the middle and a bolt between the two and one end), the bottom joints are easily done. Infact if you have the sealey tool for getting the ball joint out, there even easier!
Have to say i've done most of the possible methods to varying success (even the hub off option, though i took the whole hub carrier off to do some work!) and splitting the joint is still the easiest! Especially with the tool!
As for covering the rad with a sheet of board, i do usually do this when doing starters etc but when doing a box i tend to hoist the box clean out of the engine, and when rotating its very easily snagged on the rad. I figure if i'm spending the time to do the box properly i might as well look after the rad and the cooling system and do the lot in one go! It's certainly worht the extra swearing to get the rad out of the way if your a beginner and new to cars! And hell if you dont know when it was last flushed then it can't hurt!
As an aside, check the condition of the nut when you take it off, i might save you hassle if you replace it (get them from Citroen or Peugeot dealers and they always have them in stock!), make sure to use copper slip or the sort when putting everything back together! And remember to put fresh oil on the seals as you put the new ones into there holes, might seem like its an idea to simply get them in easier, but it helps the seals seat properly!
Personally i dont see the whole undoing the hub carrier as a good idea, for a start it will only let you move the hub back a short way, generally NOT giving enough playing room. If where talking about taking the hole shaft out and thus undoing the hub nut, then best of luck to you! The bottom joint nut WILL always come off with enough patience, but not the hub nut! I've had two now that have had to be cut off, the last one laughed at the impact wrench scoffed at my man power, didn't even wince when i headed it up so much the rubber of the ball joint and CV where melting, and the last straw was when i had a 2' breaker bar with 8' extension with a 16stone mate hanging of the end with my smacking it with a sledge hammer! I got a little emotional that day!
That said with the correct ball joint splitter (looks like two wedges hinged in the middle and a bolt between the two and one end), the bottom joints are easily done. Infact if you have the sealey tool for getting the ball joint out, there even easier!
Have to say i've done most of the possible methods to varying success (even the hub off option, though i took the whole hub carrier off to do some work!) and splitting the joint is still the easiest! Especially with the tool!
As for covering the rad with a sheet of board, i do usually do this when doing starters etc but when doing a box i tend to hoist the box clean out of the engine, and when rotating its very easily snagged on the rad. I figure if i'm spending the time to do the box properly i might as well look after the rad and the cooling system and do the lot in one go! It's certainly worht the extra swearing to get the rad out of the way if your a beginner and new to cars! And hell if you dont know when it was last flushed then it can't hurt!
As an aside, check the condition of the nut when you take it off, i might save you hassle if you replace it (get them from Citroen or Peugeot dealers and they always have them in stock!), make sure to use copper slip or the sort when putting everything back together! And remember to put fresh oil on the seals as you put the new ones into there holes, might seem like its an idea to simply get them in easier, but it helps the seals seat properly!
when mending cars for paying customers you cant go spending there dosh willy nilly by take the hole car apart,i always split lower swivle and very rarly have trouble with hub nut,as i go strait for my 2' bar with a 4' scafold tube on,but some of these DIYers do have probs going that way regards malcolm