Xantia clutch replacement

richandhazel · Post by **richandhazel** » 05 Oct 2002, 01:13

I plan to replace the clutch on my friends Xantia next weekend. Its getting stiff to operate and requires full pedal travel to engage gear, even after cable adjustment. Cable has free movement when disconnected from clutch.
I've done a few VW and Audi clutches but never one of these. Is there any advice anyone can offer, pitfalls I should avoid etc?
Thanks in advance.
Rich Jones
91 Coupe (UK spec)
http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.p ... carid=1077

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 05 Oct 2002, 17:08

If you have a Haynes to look at its straight forward, if you haven't there are some usefull tips, depends on the type of clutch, the normal push type is as any other and will be no trouble, the pull type could be frustrating if you have never encountered it before.
Only other difficulty is safely suporting the flywheel end of the engine while removing and lowering the box.
Dave

richandhazel · Post by **richandhazel** » 05 Oct 2002, 19:48

Dave, thanks for the advice. That's quite encouraging.
Its a 1.8 so I'm assuming it is the conventional push type clutch which makes life easier. I don't anticipate a problem supporting the engine as I have an engine hoist.
What does concern me, having now read the Haynes manual, is how many components it requires you to remove i.e battery, battery tray, hydraulic fluid resevoir, air cleaner housing, throttle housing and the list goes on. Is it really neccesary to remove all of these components? I assume its for access, but can you avoid removing some components and just struggle a bit more?
Also it mentions removing the mounting stud from the top of the transmission (Item 23 and picture 9.23d). Why does the stud require removal? Is it to permit movement of the gearbox to the left? If so is it difficult to remove without a stud extractor as I don't have one.
Thanks again.
Rich Jones
91 Coupe (UK spec)
http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.p ... carid=1077

Dave Burns · Post by **Dave Burns** » 06 Oct 2002, 15:47

You will have to take a long look at it and decide if you need to remove all components listed, if the book says remove it its usually right, and though it will take a bit longer there will be much less frustration and cursing than struggling around something.
As for the mounting stud I suspect its just to get the transmition to move to the left, can't be sure if you can just lower the engine/box to clear it as I haven't gone down this avenue yet, but its on the card's as my clutch has got heavy to operate.
I can tell you that just lowering the engine/box on a 205 and a ZX is all you have to do, leaving the stud where it is.
On the Xantia though you have to twist the box up at the diff end to clear the subframe apparently, wether this part of the subframe will prevent initial lowering of the engine/box to allow the stud to clear I don't know, a quick look will tell you this.
Haynes says to remove this stud on other cars in the Peugeot/Citroen range where you don't actually need to, I'd be surprised if it weren't the case for the Xantia aswell.
I think this is because they assume people will ony have one trolley jack and that they will support the engine on something solid and use the jack to lower the box.
Good luck
Dave

benewson · Post by **benewson** » 06 Oct 2002, 16:22

While this topic is current I would be interested to know exactly where to support the engine (prior to cambelt change and consequent removal of engine mount 1.8i 16v).
I guess the sump would be the wrong place but cannot see any obvious place except to use a hoist.
Ben

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 06 Oct 2002, 17:10

Hi Ben - When I replace the belts on our cars (all XUD's) I put a length of wood on the jack pad and place it under the sump before removing the top engine mount. I also put a piece of hardboard between the engine and the rad for protection, although the tendency is for the engine to roll backwards.

richandhazel · Post by **richandhazel** » 07 Oct 2002, 00:37

Thanks everyone, especially Dave, you've been very helpful.
I plan to do the job next weekend. I'll let you know how I get on.
Rich

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 07 Oct 2002, 03:27

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
While this topic is current I would be interested to know exactly where to support the engine (prior to cambelt change and consequent removal of engine mount 1.8i 16v).
I guess the sump would be the wrong place but cannot see any obvious place except to use a hoist.
Ben

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Ben,
A jack can be used as has been suggested, but I did my BX using a sling which if you have access to one can make life soooo much simpler. The biggest advantage being that if you car is anything like mine, there are inner guards, plumbing and all these other bits 'n bobs stuck right where you want to get & the sling allows to move the motor round for access. The other thing of course is clear area underneath & if you're a clumsy #$%^&* like me, you don't keep barking you shins on the jack or its handle.<img src=icon_smile_blackeye.gif border=0 align=middle>
Alan S

richandhazel · Post by **richandhazel** » 22 Oct 2002, 21:24

Clutch done. Only stumbling block was that I didn't have a 35mm socket for undoing the driveshaft hub nut. A quick visit to one of our local autofactors (tried 3 other places including Halfords to no avail) and I was up and running again. I used a trolley jack to support the engine and a hoist to hold the gearbox and lower it to the floor....worked really well with no hitches at all.
The release bearing was in pieces with half of it stuck to the fingers of the clutch and the rest of it in the bell housing. 3 fingers were broken on the clutch, however, the friction material was pretty good, not much wear at all.
Clutch is now smoother and effortless in comparison to its previous state. Glad to get that job out of the way.
Rich Jones
91 Coupe (UK spec)
http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.p ... carid=1077
Rich Jones
91 Coupe (UK spec)
http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.p ... carid=1077

Fox · Post by **Fox** » 22 Oct 2002, 21:30

Mine is nearing the end of its life as well.
How long did this take you to carry out, was it an easy or difficult job, and how much did it cost in parts?
Cheers!
1994 Citroen Xantia SX 1.9 Turbo Diesel
147,500 miles

richandhazel · Post by **richandhazel** » 23 Oct 2002, 17:11

I guess it took me about 10 hours in total (did it over a weekend), Citroen quote 7 hours. I've done a few VW and Audi clutches in my time and found this just a little more fiddley mainly due to the hydraulics and hydraulic components that need to be removed for access. Its certainly within the scope of any reasonably competent DIY mechanic.
To echo what has already been said by others here, it is definately an advantage having a hoist to support the engine or gearbox from above as well as a trolley jack for support from below.
I bought a complete clutch kit from GSF for around £54. I was suprised to find that the kit even included a plastic alignment tool, a nice touch.
Oh, I nearly forgot there was the fluids. I replaced the gearbox oil, that was around 1.8 litres so 2 litres at £10 each. I also needed to top up the hydraulic fluid afterwards, 1/2 a litre was enough, that was around £10 a litre too.
Another thing that the the Haynes manual mentions is to replace the drive shaft to transmission oil seals as a matter of course. I hadn't bought them and in actual fact got away without having to do so.
Hope that helps,
Rich
Rich Jones
91 Coupe (UK spec)
http://www.audifans.com/registry/view.p ... carid=1077