Friend (non-diyer)has been quoted £150 per side to replace the rear arm bearings on his BX diesel. Sounds a bit steep to me but have any of you had the job done at a garage (not main dealer!!) recently and know roughly the price charged?
Thanks
PhilW
Phil
Rear arm bearing cost
Moderator: RichardW
-
shaunthesheep
- Posts: 364
- Joined: 16 Jul 2002, 14:42
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
phil,
bearing kit from www.andyspares.com[url]. is listed at £ ... dex-e.html.
hope this is of some help
dom
bearing kit from www.andyspares.com[url]. is listed at £ ... dex-e.html.
hope this is of some help
dom
Hi all,
I just had a bearing replaced (and an arm and tyre because a mechanic said it didn't make a differece whether it sqeaked or not). Expensive deal, so apart from grease nipples, which I can't begin to think how to mount, does anyone have any advice on when to change the bearings to avoid damage to the arm and tyres?
Cheers, JP.
I just had a bearing replaced (and an arm and tyre because a mechanic said it didn't make a differece whether it sqeaked or not). Expensive deal, so apart from grease nipples, which I can't begin to think how to mount, does anyone have any advice on when to change the bearings to avoid damage to the arm and tyres?
Cheers, JP.
JP,
Using a variety of tricks, a mate & I once swapped a set of bearings (both sides) in 1 1/2 hours BUT..we had recently done one, had a properly equipped workshop, knew & had on hand all the gear needed & used all the tricks.
As far as knowing when to do the job goes, firstly noise (ie) scraping, creaking, squeaking and cracking. Secondly, set suspension at highest point, walk behind and look at rear wheels.
Sights like I\ /\ are signs that the leaning side is ready to fall apart.
Grease nipples are a simple job, here's a link I did that is mainly photos and is self explanatory. If a couple of squirts are pumped in each yaer after they've been fitted, knowing how to tell if the rear bearings are gone is academic.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/snippets/grease.htm
Alan S
Using a variety of tricks, a mate & I once swapped a set of bearings (both sides) in 1 1/2 hours BUT..we had recently done one, had a properly equipped workshop, knew & had on hand all the gear needed & used all the tricks.
As far as knowing when to do the job goes, firstly noise (ie) scraping, creaking, squeaking and cracking. Secondly, set suspension at highest point, walk behind and look at rear wheels.
Sights like I\ /\ are signs that the leaning side is ready to fall apart.
Grease nipples are a simple job, here's a link I did that is mainly photos and is self explanatory. If a couple of squirts are pumped in each yaer after they've been fitted, knowing how to tell if the rear bearings are gone is academic.<img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/snippets/grease.htm
Alan S
-
shaunthesheep
- Posts: 364
- Joined: 16 Jul 2002, 14:42
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
Cheer Alan & Dominic,
I figured as much as creaking and leaning wheels from my last experience where the arm had been eat out of. But isn't it too late when the wheels lean and the bearings sound?
Also, regarding the grease nipple - what is it? How does it work? I'm terribly sorry Alan, but my mechanic inexperince offered me but confusion when I looked at your web-link. From what I could make of it fitting a nipple either requires some serious jacking or some serious parts removal!?
JP.
I figured as much as creaking and leaning wheels from my last experience where the arm had been eat out of. But isn't it too late when the wheels lean and the bearings sound?
Also, regarding the grease nipple - what is it? How does it work? I'm terribly sorry Alan, but my mechanic inexperince offered me but confusion when I looked at your web-link. From what I could make of it fitting a nipple either requires some serious jacking or some serious parts removal!?
JP.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Cheer Alan & Dominic,
I figured as much as creaking and leaning wheels from my last experience where the arm had been eat out of. But isn't it too late when the wheels lean and the bearings sound?
Also, regarding the grease nipple - what is it? How does it work? I'm terribly sorry Alan, but my mechanic inexperince offered me but confusion when I looked at your web-link. From what I could make of it fitting a nipple either requires some serious jacking or some serious parts removal!?
JP.
No just the opposite. In the case that I showed there, it was on my 16V BX which has ABS, so the sensor wires & brackets just had to be pushed out of the road & the screw holding a bracket taken out to gain access & then refitted. In non ABS models I would say just taking the wheel off would be enough.
The dimensions are 30 - 35mm from the outside edge and as you look in you'll see the bolt; just aim the drill at the centre of it from underneath.
The idea is that the bearings fit in a housing (in this case the arm) which has a void between the bearings where they are separated by a spacer. All goes well for a couple of years/60K klms or so at which point some wear begins to develop. The car is driven through water or snow and due to the slight wear, a bit of moisture gets into the bearing area. In the case of deep water this can be fairly large amount by comparison. Water in a bearing creates heat from friction and when the bearing cools down, the water is drawn into the bearing and onto the working surfaces. This in turn sets off a situation where more heat is created due to moisture contaminating the grease and eventually the grease being expelled from the bearing and replaced by a rusty water/grease mix which then rapidly destroys the bearing, causing it to eventually collapse.
By fitting a grease nipple and pumping grease into the void between the two bearings, the area that would normally get a fair amount of moisture in it is filled partially with grease thereby not leaving any space for the water to enter and this graese tends to work its way to the actual edge of the bearing; if the bearing does then get hot or more likely warm, when it cools it will then try to ingest grease rather than water. It's a very simple job & I've had arms with them fitted that have lasted for years which previously went in a very short space. Some may argue about the theory, but it definitely works in practical application.
Alan S
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Cheer Alan & Dominic,
I figured as much as creaking and leaning wheels from my last experience where the arm had been eat out of. But isn't it too late when the wheels lean and the bearings sound?
Also, regarding the grease nipple - what is it? How does it work? I'm terribly sorry Alan, but my mechanic inexperince offered me but confusion when I looked at your web-link. From what I could make of it fitting a nipple either requires some serious jacking or some serious parts removal!?
JP.
No just the opposite. In the case that I showed there, it was on my 16V BX which has ABS, so the sensor wires & brackets just had to be pushed out of the road & the screw holding a bracket taken out to gain access & then refitted. In non ABS models I would say just taking the wheel off would be enough.
The dimensions are 30 - 35mm from the outside edge and as you look in you'll see the bolt; just aim the drill at the centre of it from underneath.
The idea is that the bearings fit in a housing (in this case the arm) which has a void between the bearings where they are separated by a spacer. All goes well for a couple of years/60K klms or so at which point some wear begins to develop. The car is driven through water or snow and due to the slight wear, a bit of moisture gets into the bearing area. In the case of deep water this can be fairly large amount by comparison. Water in a bearing creates heat from friction and when the bearing cools down, the water is drawn into the bearing and onto the working surfaces. This in turn sets off a situation where more heat is created due to moisture contaminating the grease and eventually the grease being expelled from the bearing and replaced by a rusty water/grease mix which then rapidly destroys the bearing, causing it to eventually collapse.
By fitting a grease nipple and pumping grease into the void between the two bearings, the area that would normally get a fair amount of moisture in it is filled partially with grease thereby not leaving any space for the water to enter and this graese tends to work its way to the actual edge of the bearing; if the bearing does then get hot or more likely warm, when it cools it will then try to ingest grease rather than water. It's a very simple job & I've had arms with them fitted that have lasted for years which previously went in a very short space. Some may argue about the theory, but it definitely works in practical application.
Alan S
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
-
shaunthesheep
- Posts: 364
- Joined: 16 Jul 2002, 14:42
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
jp,
gresae nipples are like a tyre value, but with a ball bearing enclosed at the top.
i got 2 45 degree nipples for £1.00.
vist this site fi you want to see one http://www.ajfittings.com/Fittings/eighth_various.jpg
hope this helps you
dom
gresae nipples are like a tyre value, but with a ball bearing enclosed at the top.
i got 2 45 degree nipples for £1.00.
vist this site fi you want to see one http://www.ajfittings.com/Fittings/eighth_various.jpg
hope this helps you
dom