Change Timing Belt ZX 1.4

Marlon65 · Post by **Marlon65** » 23 May 2005, 21:31

I want to learn how to change the timing belt, can anyone please provide a PDF file on this? This timing belt problem had caused me most of the embarrasing problems with my 10-year old car.
Here's what I mentioned in the previous topic: I had my timing belt replaced (ZX 1.4 '95) for the first time at 150K and the dealer replaced the pulley also without even asking me. Anyway, I asked for the old belt and the pulley, which the shop gave to me without protesting. I noticed that the belt was still in great shape at 150K and I told myself that maybe I should not have had it replaced. The thing is, it's my first car and when I heard somebody said that the timing belt should be replaced every 100K, I immediately had mine replaced.
Here's the kicker. After about 2 years, at 200K, the car suddenly died out in the middle of the road. I kept on clicking the ignition but the engine it wouldn't start. It was cranking alright but there was a different sound with it, and the cranking was a bit faster than usual. Anyway, I had it towed to the nearest shop and when the mechanic removed the belt's cover, the belt was still intact or in good condition. The mechanic came to know, and so myself, that the pulley became loose due to the not so tight bolt. Eventually it got out of timing. Good thing nothing was damaged in the engine.
Obviously, the mechanic who replaced the belt for the first time at 150K didn't tight the pulley's bolt enough. But how come it took 2 years (at 200K) before this happened. I can only guess.
And last month, the temperature got really high and I decided to parked the car safely in the highway. Anyway, the mechanic changed the water pump and the thermostat together. So it was running again in no time. Then suddenly it died out again in the middle of the road on a work day. Again, the timing belt's pulley slipped because the previous mechanic didn't tight it enough.
So, can anyone please teach how to put back the timing belt. Thks.

Kowalski · Post by **Kowalski** » 23 May 2005, 21:52

You can tighten the crank pulley up to the correct torque, i.e. tight enough, and it will still come undone if you don't put a thread locking compound onto the crank pulley bolt. This is important on your engine, and very much more important on any "interference" engine because if the belt goes they will damage themselves.
I'm suprised that your belt lasted as long as it did, 10 years and 150k miles is a VERY long life for a belt, on my Xantia the belt was cracked and worn after 5 years and 35k miles (they'll do more milage but not more time).

Marlon65 · Post by **Marlon65** » 24 May 2005, 00:49

Hi Kowalski,
Thread locking compound, wow! I'm starting to worry again. I did watch the mechanic fix it really tightly but i didn't notice any locking compound. Can anyone please send a photo with the bolt, would appreciate it.
To clear things out, here's the history of my manual ZX:
a) Changed timing belt on Aug-2001 at 157k.
b) Pulley slipped and retightened on Feb-2004 at 208k.
c) Pulley slipped and retightened on Apr-2004 at 213k.
d) Changed water pump & thermostat on 9-Apr-2005 at 233k.
e) Pulley slipped and retightened on 16-Apr-2005 at 234k.
What should I do now? I think I'll just wait till the next slippage. I'm afraid if I tinker with it now it will just slip again.

AndersDK · Post by **AndersDK** » 24 May 2005, 03:05

I'm quite sure the crankbolt needs some Locktite.
The pulley will not start slipping with a loose bolt as the pulley is locked to the axle with a woodruff key.
Only when the bolt has worked itself several turns out - the pulley can miss the key grip.
Replacing the cambelt itself is just about BiCycle science - nothing to worry about. It's just an un-usual work for the first timer - and scary because of the consequences of a wrong job.
Search the forum for keyword "cambelt" - and you get loads of feedback. This work is almost 98% identical to all newer engines.
You may get some useful ideas here : Replacing cambelt
Other good habits : always re-insert bolt,washers and nuts where they belong after any disassembly (where ever possible). This way you never forget a bolt or washer, and you can always find them again.
Dont try rush yourself.
Some people find it amusing bragging about how fast they can do this or that on their cars.
Wrong approach !
Take your time - even if it take days - to make yourself confident that the work is 100% complete.
I've seen my own son-in-law sweating around with my hydraulic jack in my yard - replacing all 4 wheels on his car within 20 minutes.
"No sweat" he said - then came back with the car within 2 minutes - had a terrible knocking from one frontwheel.
"Darned" he muttered while running to my workshop "you got an extra driveshaft ?" he yelled.
"Yes" I replied.
"Have you checked the wheelbolts ?" I asked.
????
He rushed back and shortly after the wheelcaps were flying off.
One frontwheel only had the bolts nipped up [:p]

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 24 May 2005, 04:28

that about right anders,(less hast more speed)also on 1.4 petrol is this i think also diesel engines you dont undo crank shaft pully centre bolt,just undo small outer ones,so if bolts did come loose you crank sprocket should never come loose regards malcolm

Marlon65 · Post by **Marlon65** » 24 May 2005, 11:19

Anders,
Here’s a back to back picture of the original pulley/bearing removed in my ZX in Aug-2001.[img]f:\pullybear.jpg[/img]
Obviously, the side with a square hole is the outer side. I saw the mechanic making use of the square hole to turn the pulley/bearing in the right position.
I think the small circular hole in the inner side is for the woodruff key that you mentioned. Who ever designed it was smart after all. I think the last mechanic locked it or put it in the right spot this time, I feel safe again.
If ever I change cambelt again, I will insist with the mechanic to check or be sure of the proper locked position.