BX outer rhs boot change without d/s removal

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ghostrider
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Post by ghostrider »

did the outer on my Xantia the other week, exactly the same as the BX, years ago I made up an adapter for my slide hammer so that it attaches to the D/S via the hub nut, usually it pulls off no problems. I generally leave the boot on until the joint comes apart so it doesn't fall off and pick up crud from the ground. The xantia was having none of it, in the end I wound up removing the D/S and mounting it in a vice before giving it the big hammer treatment with a large ally drift. It was very tight on the splines, not damaged but just a much better fit then any of the BX ones had ever been, or maybe all my bx ones had had the boots replaced a zillion times [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D] [:D] .
I noticed the new xantia boots from GSF are plastic rather than rubber do they last better? they feel stiffer so I wonder about stress splits, but they also look like they should be immune from ozone attack unlike the rubber ones.
How do you do the clips they supply up? I used Ligarex strapping in the end as I have the proper tool for tightening the stuff ex Pleiades
Pete
________
Chappell of bond street
Last edited by ghostrider on 22 Feb 2011, 06:03, edited 1 time in total.
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Why go for the balljoint ?
You can slack the clamp that holds the strut in the hub - and lift out the strut.
<font color="blue"><i>One of the special features with a hydraulic strut.</i></font id="blue"> [8D]
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Post by mpr1956 »

Hi, Not sure if I dare admit that I have done a few outers on my cars by cutting the new boot lengthways with a scalpel, then carefully supergluing it back together around the driveshaft!! after the first cm or so it is quite easy, and I never had one come apart at the join. Now I have the correct tools I do them properly, but this method was quick and effective !
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Post by czenda »

AndersDK, this is an interesting suggestion! Does it work on RH side as well, where the driveshaft goes through intermediate bearing? Is it necessary to disconnect the vertical link, or can it stay where it is?
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AndersDK
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Post by AndersDK »

Why are you dismantling the lower balljoint in the first place ?
- because you need to angle out the hub in order to withdraw driveshaft (CV joint that is) stub axle from hub.
This is done equally well with the hub free of the strut end.
Nothing to do with the side of car or the droplink.
It's simply an easier approach.
On a "normal" car this is not possible because the McPherson strut will have the coiled spring always under tension.
On a hydraulic Citroen you simply release the hydraulic suspension pressure and then push up the strut.
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Post by Dave Bamber »

Never thought of doing it that way Anders, been doing the ball joint way for ever so I've got kind of stuck in that groove. I need to pull a shaft on the scrapper shortly so I'll give it a go!
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Gregg1100
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Post by Gregg1100 »

<font color="blue"><font size="2"><font face="Century Gothic">Hi,
It is relatively easy to do the outer gaiter on the R/H drive shaft, without removing shaft from car. It is more interesting doing the inner gaiter on same shaft.[}:)] It can be done, a bit awkward, a two hour course on learning new cusswords beforehand, is an advantage,[:D]
This was done on a Bx 19TZs H reg.
If I remember rightly, I put sticky tape over splines when I slid gaiter up shaft, then removed it.
Good fun these Cits,
Greg</font id="Century Gothic"></font id="size2"></font id="blue">
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Post by Homer »

Never thought of Ander's idea either. I've done several by removing the lower balljoint from the lower wishbone.
The N/S ones I always removed the whole driveshaft but the o/s with the intermediate bearing I have always done in place.
Get a couple of circlips before you start. For a few pence it helps reassembly.
Loosen hub bolt with wheels on ground.
Raise + support front of car (both sides).
Remove the nut from the lower balljoint with the suspension on full height then replace the nut a few turns so you don't damage the thread.
Now put suspension on lowest and open bleed screw.
Split balljoint & remove balljoint and hub nuts.
You will now be able to compress the strut sufficiently by hand to lift it out from the lower wishbone. The driveshaft may need a little tap to loosen it from the hub (use the nut to protect the threads if you do).
Cut the old boot off then tap the balljoint right close up against the driveshaft holding the driveshaft tight. It shouldn't take much effort, I used to use a rubber mallet on them.
The rest is obvious.
citronut
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Post by citronut »

anders is quite right this is far easyer than lower swivle,you do also need to release track rod end this allows hub to move freely,the method with slide hammer is not so good,when shaft is on car as you risk yanking inner joint apart,also if you do remove shaft you will loose 1litre of gear oil you will need to replace this regards malcolm
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Post by DLM »

Assuming I can find a long enough gap between the showers today I'll give the job a go again. I got sidetracked last week: I was doing a disc/pad change, and discovered a leaky strut return that needed attention at the same time, so did no more than those two jobs.
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Post by tomsheppard »

And they all lived happily ever after.
(I ended up doing it!)
The joint didn't tap free so I had to split the balljoint which was easy and withdraw the shaft, scattering needles like a cheap Christmas tree. Then David bust the ligarex, once I had everything tightened up again. I sent him in for lunch and completed the job with Tyraps. Took an hour! When all goes as planned, twenty minutes- bah!
citronut
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Post by citronut »

the only prob with cable ties you cant pull tight enough to stop grease escaping,by rights they are not MOTable regards malcolm
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Post by tomsheppard »

Rubbish.
citronut
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Post by citronut »

there is differant standerds of workmansh** out there is there not regards malcolm
Jon

Post by Jon »

Ligarex rules!!!! (I only say that because I have the pliers, clips and strapping!!)
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