BX outer rhs boot change without d/s removal

DLM · Post by **DLM** » 18 May 2005, 23:27

I need to change the front outer boot on the right-hand side of my BX TD. I understand there's a way to do this without completely removing the driveshaft. Can anyone elucidate (or provide some hints). I gather access to the driveshaft circlips is required. Thanks in advance.

Post by **Peter.N.** » 18 May 2005, 23:41

You need to remove the boot and clean the grease away so you can see what you are doing, the securing circlip is inside the CV joint, so you cant get at it, but if you smartly hit the CV joint outwards, as close to the shaft as possible, you should be able to spring it off. You will need to hit is hard and square, if you can find a bit of 1/2" solid bar or similar, it is better to locate this against the joint and hit the end with the hammer.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 18 May 2005, 23:56

I've done it - was advised to use a copper hammer to strike the joint with - still have to get one!
there are various tales about the inner joint coming apart - I don't know how secure it is. Mine didn't!
Not particularily easy first time but can be done!
jeremy

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 19 May 2005, 00:24

You don't need to get at the circlip,its compressed into its groove by the c.v. joint when you bash it off- the chances are that the circlip will be missing anyway, its not essential: its only there to keep the c.v. joint on the shaft during factory handling and assembly, and is rarely replaced if lost.
A sharp whack with a lump hammer will shift the joint, but am I to assume you are doing it on-car? If so, keep a tight hold of the driveshaft or you may disturb the inner joint needle rollers.
You could of course save yourself a whole lot of hassle and use a sticky boot split kit!!

ItDontGo · Post by **ItDontGo** » 19 May 2005, 01:09

I used a stretchy boot on my AX last week. They said use a cone but I managed to just stretch it over with my fingers - although the AX shaft is a bit thinner than the BX one.
They must have a bit of condom techinology in those CV boots to make it all the way over the end of my driveshaft! Reminded me of a South Park scene where chef realises what he had been putting all those white women through as he watched an elephant do a pig

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 19 May 2005, 02:44

you must not hit the cadge that retains ball bearings,because you risk cracking it, you must hit the crown right against the shaft,before hand you need to seperate c/v joint from hub so you can knock it off the shaft.When you have it in your hand push one side of cadge inwards pop one ball out then push cadge back the other way pop ball 2 out,then in turn push other 2 sides in remove other 4 balls,rotate cadge there are two ball slots longer than the other 4 turn it so these two are on there sides lift it out,turn centre onits side adn remove this whash thourghly re/assemble bobs u auntie fannys u uncle regards malcolm

czenda · Post by **czenda** » 19 May 2005, 03:25

I tried to replace the boot without removing the driveshaft. I used the method described in BOL, to no avail. Maybe I was just afraid to give the thing the right amount of whack. This reluctance to use a brutal force led to these activities:
I ended up with dissassembling the brake pads and caliper (E-Z job), lower balljoint (it is a journey right througt the middle of purgatory if you do not have the tool), steering rod joint (easy job, 2kg hammer will do), vertical link joint (hope this is how it is called in English) and the strut (funny job compared to those described above). All these were performed with the car suspended right before the jacking point, hydraulics set to the lowest point, pressure released, front wheels hanging in the air.
Discharging gearbox oil through differential plug left only a few oil stains on my brother-in-law´s garden as I was lucky enough to catch the remaining 1.8 l of the gearbox oil. He was not very happy, though (one would expect somewhat higher level of understanding from a person driving another PSA product, PGT!).
Then and only then it was possible to remove the driveshaft complete with old cracked boot (new one is worth some lousy 3 EUR) and a hub from the driveshaft.
The inner joint is kept in place with its boot (you will notice it is made of a much thicker material). I do not think you have to worry about it unless it is cracked. The boot should keep the rod in place without any dangerous free play. I used standard hardware store hose clips to secure the new outer boot.
At least, this is how it worked with my BX... but one should never underestimate them! They are ready to jump at your neck when you are not looking!

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 19 May 2005, 03:56

We did one on my 16V a few days ago using the stretch boot. There's a Cit owner out here who works for the distributor and he swears by them as he's used the originals also in the past and found these actually outlast them.
On that particular boot, it needs to be slid on inside out and reversed once on the driveshaft. You spray the cone and the insides of the boot with silicone spray and I understand that if it is being awkward to get up the cone, use a piece of plastic sheeting between the cone and the boot sprayed on boh sides with silicone spray.
A wise precaution is not to indulge in baked beans, cabbage or brussels sprouts prior to attempting this feat as it can lead to much amusement of the local kiddies who happen to be in the vicinity and stern admonition from the spouse if she happens to have a ladies day on at the time and one asks "what's that I can hear?"[:0][:0]
It is one real tight fit!!
Alan S

citronut · Post by **citronut** » 19 May 2005, 04:07

its ok using stretch c/v boots if old one has only got small hole,not much chance of grit and s**t getting in,if split wide open you should realy strip it right out and clean thourghly if you want your c/v joint to last regards malcolm

DLM · Post by **DLM** » 19 May 2005, 23:36

Thanks for all advice - I will be tackling this at the weekend (and trying not to do several things at once, as I was last weekend).
It's the balljoint removal that puts me off the Haynes method - I don't have a splitter.

Dave Bamber · Post by **Dave Bamber** » 20 May 2005, 01:15

I've never used a ball joint splitter as I think the fork type one looks like a boot splitter to me.
My method is to slacken the nut and remove to clean the threads, then wind it back on to just before the nylon insert.
Big hammer time.
Have a look at the area the ball joint goes through on the wishbone, you will see a cast lug, give this a good clout with the hammer, be careful you don’t hit the ball joint threaded . This should be enough to break the hold on the taper.
To be honest, if the CV is tight to get off the shaft, it may be easier to remove the shaft completely from the car and change the boot on the bench. I think it’s worth the extra 5 minutes work.

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 20 May 2005, 01:22

I just give the inner part of the CV joint a sharp tap with my smallest hammer. off they pop, its more about technique than force, as for the balljoint, I insert my favourite tyre lever, lean on it and sharply tap the "eye" usually they give after a few taps.
Stewart

czenda · Post by **czenda** » 20 May 2005, 02:34

I just remembered - I had the balljoint bolt supported with a little hydraulic jack before getting to "big hammer time". I also had to use a long steel rod to give the lug on the wishbone the beating it deserved.

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 20 May 2005, 02:42

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by jeremy</i>

I've done it - was advised to use a copper hammer to strike the joint with - still have to get one!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... 85&recno=5
Best tool *ever*.

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 20 May 2005, 03:05

Thanks 'arry - I did try a nylon one but that was just too soft and was cutting up.
jeremy