cam belt replacement

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 12 May 2005, 03:26

hi guys
just wonder,d what sort of job it is to replace the cambelt on my 1.9td xantia ive done a cam belt before on a rover 214 sixteen valve and a vauxhall cavalier or should i just let the professionals do it
pete............

Kowalski · Post by **Kowalski** » 12 May 2005, 03:50

On a 1.9TD, the cambelt covers are the most difficult bit of the job, the belt change itself is simple enough. You'll need a couple of bolts and a piece of rod to lock the shafts up.

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 12 May 2005, 03:50

No fears for you then, Pete.
The job is similar to the 8V cav one (with the obvious extra sprocket for the diesel pump), and easier than doing a 16V Cav. If you need to change the waterpump at the same time, it's a lot easier than getting the Vauxhall one out.
You'll be fine.

Post by **RichardW** » 12 May 2005, 12:45

It's not particularly difficult, you just need a lot of odd tools, and fingers with 4 bends in, and 2 foot long help as well [}:)]
You need a 22mm socket to get the crankshaft pulley undone (and a good one at that!), 16mm deep socket to get the engine mount off, flexible screwdriver to get the jubilee clips on the turbo piping undone, 10mm square shaft to push the tensioner back (others have reported that the shaft that goes through a door handle is the right size - I am going to make a tool for this by welding on of those onto a piece of angle, as I have both the ZX and Xantia to do this summer).
The 10mm nut on the front cover that's right behind the engine mount is awkward (was bad enough on my non A/C car, but I had a look at my current A/C car, and the way I got it last time from the front will not be open this time as the HP pump is in the way. Think I need to get a straight headed ratchet spanner to get it from the back). The final bolt in the rear cover is right on the back, and right under the (bottom) turbo pipe - 'just' take the pipes off and you will get access (note, you still won't be able to see it!). Oh, and just for fun, this bolt is 11mm head whereas all the other cover bolts are 10mm head [:D].
You've got to love PSA design!

ITMA · Post by **ITMA** » 12 May 2005, 13:44

Useful information Richard. I decided to change my belts for peace of mind as there was no service record with the car. Wasted several hours over the bank holiday and eventually gave up as I could not find how to get the covers off - couldn't find the nut and bolt that the Haynes referred to.
Also, if you use the Haynes manual (which should be re-classified in book shops to the fiction department) the whole job is described in bits which are spread over a number of sections. I missed one section which said "support the engine before removing the front engine mount". Whooooops!
Having read this thread I feel encouraged to have another go as others seem to have made a sucess of it, although I did have a good look at the belt and it seemed to be fairly new.

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 12 May 2005, 22:25

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ITMA

Also, if you use the Haynes manual (which should be re-classified in book shops to the fiction department) the whole job is described in bits which are spread over a number of sections. I missed one section which said "support the engine before removing the front engine mount". Whooooops!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Removing engine mounts will do that every time.
The other "special" tool you will find needed for a cambelt is an offset-head 13mm ring spanner for the lock bolt on the tensioner. It's a pain in the ar$e to get to, and needs to be reasonably tight.
I have to say, I gave up on the "later" style bolted cambelt covers, and have completely converted my 405 back to the old style with spring clips. Makes working on it somewhat easier. If anyone has the later covers, and an old XUD lying about, I would recommend this. Not only are the earlier covers easier to use, but they shield better too. The later ones are a cost reducion, and nothing more.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 12 May 2005, 23:18

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ITMA
I did have a good look at the belt and it seemed to be fairly new.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Looking at a fitted belt can be misleading. What looks in good condition, when it's removed and flexed in the opposite curve, can show up cracks at the base of the teeth.

fastandfurryous · Post by **fastandfurryous** » 12 May 2005, 23:42

Like this:

Sorry for poor quality image... it's a poor quality camera!
This belt was just beginning to show the signs of root-cracking, and was well past it's best. I have removed worse though, from a Vauxhaull 2.0i 8v engine. The cracks were 60% of the way through the teeth, and that belt must have had merely seconds left to live!

pete@co.uk · Post by **pete@co.uk** » 13 May 2005, 01:27

Thanks guys
mmmmmm still thinking about the professionals thanks for the info guys [:)]
pete......................................

j_roc · Post by **j_roc** » 13 May 2005, 01:49

All this talk about timing belts reminded me of the time the belt on my old Sierra injection snapped (lucky it was only on idle at the time). All I did was obtain a new belt, put it on and time the engine. Hopefully it wont happen to the Xantia as its well due for a belt change - I can see cracks on the top of the belt, so whats it like on the underside[:0].

arry_b · Post by **arry_b** » 13 May 2005, 02:47

The Pinto in the Sierra is a non-interference engine. You could snap a belt at full chat, and not damage one of those!