In trying to remove the rear caliper to stop it rubbing on the disc (due to corrosion build up) I have sheared both retaining bolts off (yes, I know, I should have made sure the first was going to come out properly before attempting the second). The threaded part is still in the arm and I assume that they have broken level with the arm - the caliper is still held on by the rust at the moment as I haven't tried to shift it yet!!
So, one assumes that the caliper will be ripped off as soon as the brakes are used. What to do next?? Several options??
- try to remove the broken ends myself: don't have the equipment so would have to buy stud kit, blow torch etc. Having not done this before is it likely to be very easy or not???
- have the car recovered to a garage
- wire on the caliper and proceed carefully to a garage using the handbrake (i.e. front brakes). Obviously not the safest option.
Cannot think of a way to disable the rear brakes/remove caliper easily to make the car mobile.
Does anyone have any ideas or advice? I'm getting a little desperate!!!!
Chris
Also posted on xantia-L
URGENT!! Sheared caliper bolts
Moderator: RichardW
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Chris Peddie
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Dave Burns
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Hi Chris, I think you can forget all about stud extractors of any kind, if the bolt wouldn't unscrew and broke, then an extractor has got no chance.
Options as see them are 1, take the arm off and take it where the bolts can be removed, 2 get it recovered as you say to a garage, 3 drill the bolts out which will be a bit risky as you might damage the threads, 4 bit dodgy this but can you get the disc off, if you can you could shove something disc thickness between pads and drive very carefully.
Personally I wouldn't drive it at all, if anything worse can happen it will, you can count on it.
Good luck
Dave
Options as see them are 1, take the arm off and take it where the bolts can be removed, 2 get it recovered as you say to a garage, 3 drill the bolts out which will be a bit risky as you might damage the threads, 4 bit dodgy this but can you get the disc off, if you can you could shove something disc thickness between pads and drive very carefully.
Personally I wouldn't drive it at all, if anything worse can happen it will, you can count on it.
Good luck
Dave
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Chris Peddie
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Thanks, 'guru' Dave !!! I thought it would be a bit optimistic moving it myself.
Now, your suggestion of removing the arm raises another question! I think the bearings on the other arm are on the way out (as I have a squeek/chitter driving especially in the wet, and it creaks near the top of its travel when jumping around in the boot) so it follows that the bearings on this side are also a bit knackered (car has done 130k now, is 1996 vintage).
And now the question, if arm removal isn't too difficult (I've read the ahem, haynes, ahem, and the japanese bx page which make it seem a reasonable job) I could try doing the bearings as well. Are there any pitfalls I'm not aware of?? It seems like a bolt off, bolt on kind of job?
Cheers,
Chris
Now, your suggestion of removing the arm raises another question! I think the bearings on the other arm are on the way out (as I have a squeek/chitter driving especially in the wet, and it creaks near the top of its travel when jumping around in the boot) so it follows that the bearings on this side are also a bit knackered (car has done 130k now, is 1996 vintage).
And now the question, if arm removal isn't too difficult (I've read the ahem, haynes, ahem, and the japanese bx page which make it seem a reasonable job) I could try doing the bearings as well. Are there any pitfalls I'm not aware of?? It seems like a bolt off, bolt on kind of job?
Cheers,
Chris
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shaunthesheep
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chris,
relacing the arm bearings are not too bad, i found it easier to remove the arms from the car.
the hardest part is trying to remove the piston pushrod from the arm, you will lose 1/3 of your strengh.
you will need a 24mm deep socket, 24mm normal socket, help of an assistant, two socket wrenchs, 8mm, 24mm, 12mm, sockets, ext bar's, large hammer, metal tube or a long screwdriver to knock out the old bearings, plus jack's & axle stands.
i fitted grease nipples while i was at it, to cure any later problems.
on refitting, the pushrod gatters split, had to order them form citroen main dealer, part no. 527204 - pushrod gatter, 26140919 - gatter clamp, did have to wait about a week for them to come in.
it took me about 8 hours to do both sides.
if you need anymore info Email Me
dom
relacing the arm bearings are not too bad, i found it easier to remove the arms from the car.
the hardest part is trying to remove the piston pushrod from the arm, you will lose 1/3 of your strengh.
you will need a 24mm deep socket, 24mm normal socket, help of an assistant, two socket wrenchs, 8mm, 24mm, 12mm, sockets, ext bar's, large hammer, metal tube or a long screwdriver to knock out the old bearings, plus jack's & axle stands.
i fitted grease nipples while i was at it, to cure any later problems.
on refitting, the pushrod gatters split, had to order them form citroen main dealer, part no. 527204 - pushrod gatter, 26140919 - gatter clamp, did have to wait about a week for them to come in.
it took me about 8 hours to do both sides.
if you need anymore info Email Me
dom
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Dave Burns
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Don't want to put the wind up you Chris but the caliper was a bolt off bolt on kind of job, just shows how easey things can go pear shape.
Worst case scenario would be for the pivot bolt to be frozen in, its not unkown, saw a post on the BX site a few weeks ago about it.
Not had the pleasure of doing these bearing's yet, suppose it will Loom some day.
I know you have got to get the arm off to sort the broken bolt's, and you may aswell do the bearing's at the same time, there would have to be more tangible evidence of bad bearing's than a squeek before I would consider replacing them though, like play or roughness and stiffening of movement.
Dave
Worst case scenario would be for the pivot bolt to be frozen in, its not unkown, saw a post on the BX site a few weeks ago about it.
Not had the pleasure of doing these bearing's yet, suppose it will Loom some day.
I know you have got to get the arm off to sort the broken bolt's, and you may aswell do the bearing's at the same time, there would have to be more tangible evidence of bad bearing's than a squeek before I would consider replacing them though, like play or roughness and stiffening of movement.
Dave
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Chris Peddie
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Thanks guys, yeah I realise the caliper was an easy job, I'll just remove this little bit of corrosion, won't take long, SNAP!, ah, now what!!
I'll check for play when I jack it up before I decide to do the bearings but the arm will have to come off anyway as you say.
It does stick in place when the car is sat for some time and then drop when pushed (I can say this because the anti sink doesn't seem to be working properly!!) so it is certainly getting stiff.
Will keep you posted!
Chris
I'll check for play when I jack it up before I decide to do the bearings but the arm will have to come off anyway as you say.
It does stick in place when the car is sat for some time and then drop when pushed (I can say this because the anti sink doesn't seem to be working properly!!) so it is certainly getting stiff.
Will keep you posted!
Chris
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Chris Peddie
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shaunthesheep
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