Nobody yet seems to have considered that the pressure sensor switch might be faulty, and the rest of the system perfectly OK!
Short of changing it to see if there's any difference, I can't think of a way to test the switch without a suitable pressure guage - perhaps someone else can?
The saga continues TZD Hydraulics
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oilyspanner
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OOps Images way too big, sorry Jon and dial up chaps, Getting the hang of it now http://server3.uploadit.org/files/oilys ... swap08.jpg There is a gratuitous garage shot look at the lovely engines[:D]
Dnsey, already tried that one, electrical is next.
Stewart
Dnsey, already tried that one, electrical is next.
Stewart
Been there, done that and got the 'T' shirt!
Actually I think your problems may be electrical as they happen on cornering and to me seem to be fluid related.
many years ago (actually late 1999) I purchased my BX TD estate for little money and all seemed reasonably well except for tired hydraulics which wouldn't raise the car well and non functioning power steering, as well as a distressing habit of putting the warning light on at speed!. Brakes etc felt unnaffected and if I let the engine slow the light would go out! - So I got good at declutching at speed and letting the engine idle till it did.
GSF recon pump was marvellous for a bit (like 6 moinths) till I noticed the light coming on at idle occasionally. Blip of throttle cured that for a bit but it got worse and the car was slow to rise. Turning the wheel against resistance helped but a change of regulator did not nor a change of accumulator. Re seating the ball got the cycling speed up but made no difference but new LHM (or a little of it strangely) would for a few days. So car won't rise unless wheel held against resistance, light comes on in first 5 miles or less, PAS works perfectly, light goes out if I let revs drop sometimes or rev it or turn wheel either running or when stationary!
I changed the FDV for one I overhauled - no difference! But then i got lucky and decided to re-seat the ball bearing relief valve in my original (black painted and non-orignal) FDV and found it was assembled incorrectly. Changed it all over and I've never seen the light again!
So what have I learned!
1. Pump must be able to supply steering at all times and raise car reasonably quickly when it does!
2. FDV splits LHM for steering - well we all know that. BUT it should only provide a dribble when the steering is straight. When the wheel is turned the rack shuts off the dribble which alerts the FDV which then reduces the flow to the rest of the circuit and makes a heavy flow available for the steering. Holding the wheel against resistance shuts the valve in the pinion and may increase the overall pressure in the system so putting out the light, raising the car and so on.
3. If the regulator clicks then unless a spring has broken allowing it to click at too low a pressure (which I think is unlikely) it cannot do so unless there is sufficient pressure. It needs a good accumulator (whgich may save your life) and can click too often if the non-return ball valve isn't seating. it will also click too often if the accumulator is flat. To check put it on normal height, turn off, and sit in the boot. It should sink and return to original height after about 30 secs, If it does it twice - wonderful!
4. The safety valve seems a reliable device and if you look at the diagram probably only fails by leakage.
5. Mine has ABS but the brakes have always seemed very sharp to me as well as effective. I did drive it for a while with the ABS not working and came to the conclusion that of all the cars I'd had it needed it least.
The STOP light is shared with a number of other sensors - like oil pressure and temp (red I think) but I don't think the hydraulic light is. I think this is only operated by the level and the pressure switches and of course puts the stop light on as well. This means that an oil level low enough to put the oil pressure light on on cornering will put the stop light on.
jeremy
Actually I think your problems may be electrical as they happen on cornering and to me seem to be fluid related.
many years ago (actually late 1999) I purchased my BX TD estate for little money and all seemed reasonably well except for tired hydraulics which wouldn't raise the car well and non functioning power steering, as well as a distressing habit of putting the warning light on at speed!. Brakes etc felt unnaffected and if I let the engine slow the light would go out! - So I got good at declutching at speed and letting the engine idle till it did.
GSF recon pump was marvellous for a bit (like 6 moinths) till I noticed the light coming on at idle occasionally. Blip of throttle cured that for a bit but it got worse and the car was slow to rise. Turning the wheel against resistance helped but a change of regulator did not nor a change of accumulator. Re seating the ball got the cycling speed up but made no difference but new LHM (or a little of it strangely) would for a few days. So car won't rise unless wheel held against resistance, light comes on in first 5 miles or less, PAS works perfectly, light goes out if I let revs drop sometimes or rev it or turn wheel either running or when stationary!
I changed the FDV for one I overhauled - no difference! But then i got lucky and decided to re-seat the ball bearing relief valve in my original (black painted and non-orignal) FDV and found it was assembled incorrectly. Changed it all over and I've never seen the light again!
So what have I learned!
1. Pump must be able to supply steering at all times and raise car reasonably quickly when it does!
2. FDV splits LHM for steering - well we all know that. BUT it should only provide a dribble when the steering is straight. When the wheel is turned the rack shuts off the dribble which alerts the FDV which then reduces the flow to the rest of the circuit and makes a heavy flow available for the steering. Holding the wheel against resistance shuts the valve in the pinion and may increase the overall pressure in the system so putting out the light, raising the car and so on.
3. If the regulator clicks then unless a spring has broken allowing it to click at too low a pressure (which I think is unlikely) it cannot do so unless there is sufficient pressure. It needs a good accumulator (whgich may save your life) and can click too often if the non-return ball valve isn't seating. it will also click too often if the accumulator is flat. To check put it on normal height, turn off, and sit in the boot. It should sink and return to original height after about 30 secs, If it does it twice - wonderful!
4. The safety valve seems a reliable device and if you look at the diagram probably only fails by leakage.
5. Mine has ABS but the brakes have always seemed very sharp to me as well as effective. I did drive it for a while with the ABS not working and came to the conclusion that of all the cars I'd had it needed it least.
The STOP light is shared with a number of other sensors - like oil pressure and temp (red I think) but I don't think the hydraulic light is. I think this is only operated by the level and the pressure switches and of course puts the stop light on as well. This means that an oil level low enough to put the oil pressure light on on cornering will put the stop light on.
jeremy
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Jon
Resized: [:)]
I couldn't do anything with the other 2 images though, when I put the URL into my browser I got:
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I couldn't do anything with the other 2 images though, when I put the URL into my browser I got:
<i>Not Found
The requested URL /files/oilyspanner-Turboswap006.jpg was not found on this server.
Additionally, a 404 Not Found error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request. </i>