Daughter's ZX got a no -no at the MOT for worn (seizing)front strut bearings. I see that GSF sell both the individual bearing and the complete topplate w bearing. Anybody got any experience? Seems like a simple job - or am I underestimating things that can go wrong?
//NiSk
ZX change of front strut bearings
Moderator: RichardW
I don't think its particularily difficult - I seem to remember doing one on a Triumph Stag many years ago. You need to compress the spring which can be dangerous if not done properly or good clamps are not used.
I don't imagine it applies to the ZX but on the Stag it was essential to get the spring around the right way to avoid body contact.
Clamps with safety clips are now available.
jeremy
I don't imagine it applies to the ZX but on the Stag it was essential to get the spring around the right way to avoid body contact.
Clamps with safety clips are now available.
jeremy
I only ever did one on a Maestro, but it was pretty straightforward. I would imagine you already know how to get the strut out!! You do need spring compressors.
First job is strut out,then undo nut on top- this is where the spring compressors come in as you need to keep the spring compressed to get it undone. Change bearing, do up nut on top,release spring-strut back in, job done. It most likely won't need a puller or anything to get the bearing off, as it doesn't need to be an interference fit-it will probably just be sitting in a rubber mounting.
First job is strut out,then undo nut on top- this is where the spring compressors come in as you need to keep the spring compressed to get it undone. Change bearing, do up nut on top,release spring-strut back in, job done. It most likely won't need a puller or anything to get the bearing off, as it doesn't need to be an interference fit-it will probably just be sitting in a rubber mounting.
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AlWilliams
- Posts: 73
- Joined: 06 Jun 2004, 20:02
- Location: United Kingdom
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Hi,
I had the pleasure after my MOT fail last year.
It's pretty straight forward, you'll need a spring compressor, a big flat blade screwdriver, and a crank spanner to fit the top nut on the mount which is recesed quite a bit (seen in the engine bay), plus std kit.
Basically, the only problem is getting the blasted strut out of the hub (removing the whole assembly makes everything much eaiser), I found that spreading the strut clamp on the hub with a big screwdriver worked a treat, PlusGas is good here as well.
After that, plain sailing, just watch when torque up the new bearing assembly, they have a tendancy to not sit correctly so could be damaged when load is applied whilst lowering the car back down.
Overall, including stuck hub clamps a couple of hours should more tham do it. Don't forget, new nylocks and a touch of copper slip on the strut to aid dissassembly in the future.
Hope this helps.
I had the pleasure after my MOT fail last year.
It's pretty straight forward, you'll need a spring compressor, a big flat blade screwdriver, and a crank spanner to fit the top nut on the mount which is recesed quite a bit (seen in the engine bay), plus std kit.
Basically, the only problem is getting the blasted strut out of the hub (removing the whole assembly makes everything much eaiser), I found that spreading the strut clamp on the hub with a big screwdriver worked a treat, PlusGas is good here as well.
After that, plain sailing, just watch when torque up the new bearing assembly, they have a tendancy to not sit correctly so could be damaged when load is applied whilst lowering the car back down.
Overall, including stuck hub clamps a couple of hours should more tham do it. Don't forget, new nylocks and a touch of copper slip on the strut to aid dissassembly in the future.
Hope this helps.