I haven't heard of this problem on the forum before, so I thought I'd ask....
The remote central locking on the Volcane doesn't work properly. Sometimes the driver's door doesn't lock properly. However, it (nearly) always works with the key (although the girlfriend has reported it not locking the other door and boot once), although the passenger door motor occasionally makes a loud noise like its trying to activate after the door is locked.
Often, resistance can be felt when turning the key, like if the motor was energised. Has anybody experienced this? Hopefully, I can sort it out if Stewart (oilyspanner) can supply spare motors, but is that likely to help?
Cheers,
James
Strange ZX door locks
Moderator: RichardW
I have had this problem before. It was down to the door pin in the door. The plastic pin that you press down to lock the door from the inside.
If that has been used often the metal pin that is fixed to the central locking actuator bends, this causes resistance in the mechanism when you to open/close the door using the central locking.
The plastic door pin causes resistance to movement in the door wires, and the door solenoid doesn't always actuate fully.
You will probably notice resistance when using the handle on the inside, to open the door.
Beware..as well as not opening sometimes the door catch will be half cocked and the door wont actually shut! Many a twitchy sphincter over that little beauty.[:0]
If that has been used often the metal pin that is fixed to the central locking actuator bends, this causes resistance in the mechanism when you to open/close the door using the central locking.
The plastic door pin causes resistance to movement in the door wires, and the door solenoid doesn't always actuate fully.
You will probably notice resistance when using the handle on the inside, to open the door.
Beware..as well as not opening sometimes the door catch will be half cocked and the door wont actually shut! Many a twitchy sphincter over that little beauty.[:0]
Thanks for the reply. I've had the situations when the door won't shut! After a few twitchy heartbeats I've always got it back in sync though. In fact the last time was in February when it froze AFTER I'd driven half a mile, and the door wouldn't shut! [B)]
I don't think the resistance is due to the inside lock though. It can be there one minute, and gone the next. It even feels just like pushing against a motor.
I guess the only way to find out may be by investigation, but I'm not too keen to take off the door card without a firmer idea, because I know I'll probably break it! [:(!]
I don't think the resistance is due to the inside lock though. It can be there one minute, and gone the next. It even feels just like pushing against a motor.
I guess the only way to find out may be by investigation, but I'm not too keen to take off the door card without a firmer idea, because I know I'll probably break it! [:(!]
Took the door cards off not too long ago to put the cable that had fallen off the actuator back on! They come off ok and go back on fine, watch out for the door mirror bits though as they are a bit fragile, the door pin locator as its a pathetic piece of plastic and snaps easily [:(], as well as the window winder (if you have one) launching itself at your nuts when you've forgotton to pull it off befor you started [:D]!
Sounds like the earlier stages of the locking problem that several here (including me) seem to have....
Today on my ZX (td, sx, R reg) I took out the glovebox to check the wiring behind it. Other half had noticed a while ago that on a few occasions if she bumped the covering material under the glovebox frame the locks would sometimes respond, but I had not been able to replicate that.
The car's keyfob/plip will still make the main solenoid click rather feebly but nothing more than that. The main lock control unit itself, plus the unit in the driver's door, have already been replaced but the problem continued as before....
Behind the glovebox a thick wiring loom comes in through the bulkhead. From this loom there are several branch offs of lesser bundles of wiring, and one of the two which have white connector blocks seems to relate to the central locking -- when twisted to and fro it intermittently made the locking solenoids click. If there is a break in the wiring it appears to be between where these wires (I suspect one or both of the thin orange ones) branch off the big loom and go into the terminal plugs of the connector block (no similar symptoms from the other side of the block, from which I'm presently assuming the wires feed to the locking system).
By then it was getting too dark and cold to look any further for now.
Today on my ZX (td, sx, R reg) I took out the glovebox to check the wiring behind it. Other half had noticed a while ago that on a few occasions if she bumped the covering material under the glovebox frame the locks would sometimes respond, but I had not been able to replicate that.
The car's keyfob/plip will still make the main solenoid click rather feebly but nothing more than that. The main lock control unit itself, plus the unit in the driver's door, have already been replaced but the problem continued as before....
Behind the glovebox a thick wiring loom comes in through the bulkhead. From this loom there are several branch offs of lesser bundles of wiring, and one of the two which have white connector blocks seems to relate to the central locking -- when twisted to and fro it intermittently made the locking solenoids click. If there is a break in the wiring it appears to be between where these wires (I suspect one or both of the thin orange ones) branch off the big loom and go into the terminal plugs of the connector block (no similar symptoms from the other side of the block, from which I'm presently assuming the wires feed to the locking system).
By then it was getting too dark and cold to look any further for now.