Is the engine seized?

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 10 Apr 2005, 19:26

If the cams still turn now that you have moved the engine,, then something is awry. A jammed starter? don't think so. Try gently rotating both cams therough 360 degrees. If that works, then engine is not at tdc, obviously. A siezed oil pump is a possibility, but a remote one. I'd be squirting some wd down each bore in case there is some rust in the bore. This could be caused by long disuse or a shot head gasket. If you are still getting nowhere, then Off with its head, I'm afraid.

gjb02 · Post by **gjb02** » 10 Apr 2005, 19:59

Tom, the cams only turned once I had disengaged the timing belt. The inlet cam only turned so far before I felt a valve touch piston. I looked into the spark holes and could almost see the piston crowns..it must be close.
I've sprayed some oil into the cylinders...could corroded bores really cause the engine to be that tight??
Should I take the sump off? Check all the con rods are still attached, check for play in the bearings, etc?

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 10 Apr 2005, 20:11

I would try turning the cam until the piston is free of the valve then try to get the crank to turn again in the other direction. Remember that it is now possible to remove the cam caps to close all the valves so you can work the crank to your heart's content. I suspect that now is the hour!

DarkendViper · Post by **DarkendViper** » 10 Apr 2005, 20:55

Is this the white one that was on ebay?

gjb02 · Post by **gjb02** » 10 Apr 2005, 21:19

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by DarkendViper

Is this the white one that was on ebay?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Yes!! Do you know its' history??

Kowalski · Post by **Kowalski** » 11 Apr 2005, 00:20

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by gjb02

I can't remember...how do you know when the crank is locked in the correct rotation?
The cams only lock in one place...and the crank makes two revolutions per cycle..
I guess what I'm asking is how do I know if it's not 180 degrees out??
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
There is only one place that the crank and cams can be locked so you can't end up with it 180 degrees out. These things have to be designed so a production line monkey can't get it wrong.

gjb02 · Post by **gjb02** » 11 Apr 2005, 00:59

Thanks for that. Once I get the crank free at least I'll be able to set up the timing!![:)]
Any ideas yet?
Worst case scenario...the crank has seized. How do I sort it?
Is the oil pump pickup blocked, is an oilway blocked, did a big end bearing fail. Could any of these things have happened after a cylinder head overhaul?
The bottom end is rock solid, the small amount I have moved it previously has obviously locked it further.

DarkendViper · Post by **DarkendViper** » 11 Apr 2005, 01:33

I think that the crank has seized in place.I looked at buying it but when i looked i priced up that it might need another crank. Best bet is to whip the sump off and see what it looks like. Pictures could be helpful. One of the bearings could have seized or moved slightly.
It is possible to get the timing 180 degrees out, I've done it. It ran but wouldn't rev abouve 3.5k. It also supped more juice than normal

Ste
I don't know it's history. But did look at it. May I ask what you got it for? Also how badly dented is the rear. I never got to look myself but cousin did. He didn't look at the body, I just wanted the engine.

gjb02 · Post by **gjb02** » 11 Apr 2005, 01:40

I've done more research..
Apparently it is possible for the starter to jam in the flywheel, locking the engine solid!! The solenoid will still click, but you won't be able to jump/bump start the engine nor rotate the crank. I have read of this happening to a BX Diesel on this very forum, and it's almost the same engine...[:)]
Fingers are crossed, I'll be investigating the starter soon.
Unless anyone can shoot that idea down in flames![:0]

ActivaV6uk · Post by **ActivaV6uk** » 11 Apr 2005, 03:32

some one already sugested this once on the forum, i would remove the starter then check the sump if needs be. i had this happen on a 1.9 gti engine so it is possible.
Andy

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 11 Apr 2005, 05:10

Seen it happen with easy start, teeth on starter and flyheel on top instead of meshing, sounds more like hydraulic lock to me, plugs out , socket on crank pulley bolt, turn and listen, call me back;D
Stewart

gjb02 · Post by **gjb02** » 11 Apr 2005, 17:49

Update : If the engine is seized.
I have some reasonable prices for the crank work.
Regrind £80 +vat
Crank bearings £27 +vat
Big End bearings £22 +vat
As well as that, head gasket, timing belt, head bolts, oil, engine hoist hire etc. Could see the price rise to around £250 +vat.
Ah well, lets hope it doesn't come to that.

DarkendViper · Post by **DarkendViper** » 11 Apr 2005, 18:06

That's why I didn't bother with it. I would have liked it but couldn't be bothered with the extra work that might be involved.
Hope it's something esy for you.
Ste

gjb02 · Post by **gjb02** » 12 Apr 2005, 01:25

I have contacted previous owner...apparently thousands have been spent. The engine was replaced, the cylinder head was worked on, new driveshafts...the list goes on.
It turns out the radiator may have had a small leak...the engine overheated, there was nothing wrong with the head, or running, so he continued to drive the car around.
Then he had a bit of an oil leak after hitting something..the engine may have run dry of oil for a while, refilled it, and soon after the engine refused to start.
Chances are this engine has seized. Either way I think the head will have to come off, as will the sump. If I can get the engine out I may even refurbish the bottom end..depends on whether the cylinder bores have been scraped dry or not. This won't be too expensive, it will just be a pain in the a*$e.[:)]