I need to replace a rack gaiter on my BX, due to a number of splits in the n/s (passenger side)one.
I seem to remember Alan S having a nightmare with this job in the past. Are there any helpful tips? If it helps it will be done with the engine and gearbox out of the car.
BX Steering rack gaiter
Moderator: RichardW
-
- Posts: 128
- Joined: 08 Jan 2005, 02:29
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
-
- Posts: 627
- Joined: 25 Feb 2001, 02:17
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 2
Donno on the Pug gaiter - some of the Pugs used the same rack though.
Just been out looking on my 2 spare PAS racks.
At first glance it really looks like the ram stud is possible to remove - NOT. It's part of the rack itself.
However the boots on mine are a very flexible sort of plastic. No big problem to get started removing the boot.
But that is of course with the rack out in free air - not under the car.
Me thinks it's not that scaring a job though. Just free the track rod from the hub.
BTW : The gaiter/boot on this end of the rack is a rather simple large open ended tube. There is a small separate gaiter covering the axial balljoint.
Bob Smith got a document showing the situation :
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/s ... ring01.pdf
Just been out looking on my 2 spare PAS racks.
At first glance it really looks like the ram stud is possible to remove - NOT. It's part of the rack itself.
However the boots on mine are a very flexible sort of plastic. No big problem to get started removing the boot.
But that is of course with the rack out in free air - not under the car.
Me thinks it's not that scaring a job though. Just free the track rod from the hub.
BTW : The gaiter/boot on this end of the rack is a rather simple large open ended tube. There is a small separate gaiter covering the axial balljoint.
Bob Smith got a document showing the situation :
http://www.rwbsmith.plus.com/citroen2/s ... ring01.pdf
mornin' all,
Yep, it's a mongrel to do.
There is a school of thought that reckons that "banjo" can come off the end if enough force is used, in fact a guy from NZ did it recently, but you have to then ask whether that's any less drama than the other methods.
I've seen it done or done it 2 ways.
One is to pull the actual rack out which is no real big deal if you intend replacing the pinion seals and hardydisc and as a bonus you already have the engine out. This way, it is slipped over the end of the rack prior to refitting into the car and just slips straight on.
Second way is to get a universal stretch rubber type gaitor. These are apparently made by a German company. Don't even attempt to fit a genuine one by stretching; I'm sure that Sampsons strength and Einsteins brain combined couldn't figure a way to stretch them over due to the material they are made from.
With the German stretch ones, you slide it onto the fitting cone (any nearby roadworks can supply heaps when cut down)[:0] and get a piece of reasonably heavy plastic sheeting similar to the black stuff they use under concrete is ideal, and wrap the cone with that after first spraying the cone and the inside of the plastic with silicone spray. Then spray the inside of the gaitor and the outside of the plastic sheeting and give it an almighty big push so it stretches and slips over the rack end and banjo fitting. Wait a few minutes and fit ties. <b>DON'T trim until after it has been fitted (but before it has been clamped) or it will split on you.</b>
The removal of the banjo in my opinion would leave me wondering if it is securely refitted and recently I did work on a BX with a weird knock in the front end that turned out to be the bolt on the banjo touching the end of the lower control arm and I suspect it had either been removed and refitted or an unsuccessful attempt to remove it had repositioned it permanently in the wrong spot, so I really can't see that as being worth the risk. Others may disagree.
Alan S
Yep, it's a mongrel to do.
There is a school of thought that reckons that "banjo" can come off the end if enough force is used, in fact a guy from NZ did it recently, but you have to then ask whether that's any less drama than the other methods.
I've seen it done or done it 2 ways.
One is to pull the actual rack out which is no real big deal if you intend replacing the pinion seals and hardydisc and as a bonus you already have the engine out. This way, it is slipped over the end of the rack prior to refitting into the car and just slips straight on.
Second way is to get a universal stretch rubber type gaitor. These are apparently made by a German company. Don't even attempt to fit a genuine one by stretching; I'm sure that Sampsons strength and Einsteins brain combined couldn't figure a way to stretch them over due to the material they are made from.
With the German stretch ones, you slide it onto the fitting cone (any nearby roadworks can supply heaps when cut down)[:0] and get a piece of reasonably heavy plastic sheeting similar to the black stuff they use under concrete is ideal, and wrap the cone with that after first spraying the cone and the inside of the plastic with silicone spray. Then spray the inside of the gaitor and the outside of the plastic sheeting and give it an almighty big push so it stretches and slips over the rack end and banjo fitting. Wait a few minutes and fit ties. <b>DON'T trim until after it has been fitted (but before it has been clamped) or it will split on you.</b>
The removal of the banjo in my opinion would leave me wondering if it is securely refitted and recently I did work on a BX with a weird knock in the front end that turned out to be the bolt on the banjo touching the end of the lower control arm and I suspect it had either been removed and refitted or an unsuccessful attempt to remove it had repositioned it permanently in the wrong spot, so I really can't see that as being worth the risk. Others may disagree.
Alan S
Personally, I think it would be more drama fixing it than replacing it.
They were selling split boots that glued out here that were sold at car shows using one that had been glued and offering a monster sized bottle of Johnny Walker Black Label to anyone who could pull the joint apart. Naturally the promoters all got sick after the show by drinking too much Scotch, but when it came time to use the things in a practical way, they then discovered that it wasn't as good as it seemed as itw as impossible to get enough crap and grease off to get the glue to stick. Now, that was on a new boot, so what do you rate your chances with a used one?
Try the stretchy or drop the rack out which isn't all that big a job with the engine out and gives you a chance to clean and relube it internally while you're on the job.
Alan S
They were selling split boots that glued out here that were sold at car shows using one that had been glued and offering a monster sized bottle of Johnny Walker Black Label to anyone who could pull the joint apart. Naturally the promoters all got sick after the show by drinking too much Scotch, but when it came time to use the things in a practical way, they then discovered that it wasn't as good as it seemed as itw as impossible to get enough crap and grease off to get the glue to stick. Now, that was on a new boot, so what do you rate your chances with a used one?
Try the stretchy or drop the rack out which isn't all that big a job with the engine out and gives you a chance to clean and relube it internally while you're on the job.
Alan S
-
- Posts: 128
- Joined: 08 Jan 2005, 02:29
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: