help
Moderator: RichardW
help
can anyone give me advice as my bx desided to rupture one of her front to rear hydraulic lines the other night [:(]. wat is the easiest way to replace them ie hints and tips, dont say the dreaded citroen dealer as im not rich. also ive bean offered coper lines instead of steel would these be good to use. please he help me as she normaly is a good girl to me and she is my only car[8D]. cheers folk
Someone was selling 3 on Ebay the other day. Said they are for series 1 but Jon says fit all except ABS cars - otherwise I might have acquired them.
If you search you will find instructions on here for fitting them. How much you have to remove is open to opinion and some say it helps to drop the rear subframe a bit to get clearance.
GSF may sell the pipes - if not the genuine article is not that expensive from Citroen. If someone is going to make them up make sure the correct tool is used - they are not the same as brake pipe flares (pressure is greater! and these use a rubber seal)
New pipes from citroen are black in Colour - plastic coated steel - which seems to work well. They were introduced in about 1990/1991 and as an observation I haven't seen anyone on here who has had a problem with them. New genuine pipes should come with a seal.
jeremy
If you search you will find instructions on here for fitting them. How much you have to remove is open to opinion and some say it helps to drop the rear subframe a bit to get clearance.
GSF may sell the pipes - if not the genuine article is not that expensive from Citroen. If someone is going to make them up make sure the correct tool is used - they are not the same as brake pipe flares (pressure is greater! and these use a rubber seal)
New pipes from citroen are black in Colour - plastic coated steel - which seems to work well. They were introduced in about 1990/1991 and as an observation I haven't seen anyone on here who has had a problem with them. New genuine pipes should come with a seal.
jeremy
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I usually use genuine citroen pipes, they cost me £65 for the set of four inlcluding a litre of LHM last time , the advantage of them is they are pre bent and really help sorting out what goes where, be prepared to drop the exhaust system off its rubbers for access and watch out for breaking the shorter steel pipes which abound at the rear end, luckily those usually come for around a fiver each.
Stewart
Stewart
I replaced all my front to rear pipes,I did them one at a time as I needed the car to be avalable for use at short notice,but in retrospect it would have been an easier job had I dropped the rear subframe and done it over a weekend.
If one pipe has gone, the others may not be far behind so check them all carefully!!
I used GSF pipes, which didn't come with a seal, but when unrolled were a pretty good approximation of the shape of the original.
Its not a hard job, it can just be awkward if like me you have to work at the roadside, and just be prepared for other pipe type surprises than the one you first knew about!!!!
If one pipe has gone, the others may not be far behind so check them all carefully!!
I used GSF pipes, which didn't come with a seal, but when unrolled were a pretty good approximation of the shape of the original.
Its not a hard job, it can just be awkward if like me you have to work at the roadside, and just be prepared for other pipe type surprises than the one you first knew about!!!!
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thanks folks doing it now totaly droped the rear subframe and took the exhaust of all the way upto the mid section joint (no not that type of joint[:D]). when if ound the culprit pipe i could stick a thin flat blade screw driver in it and alsoi one of the other pipes was very suspect. me thinks i will do all four to on the safe side. only go two unions to do one on the brake valve thats been a bit stuborn, is it safe to use heat on it ? and one on the front that goes into the block of four all set side by side. will let you know how it goes later folks[8D]
hi folks this is realy starting to get on my nerves as i cant get the union undone on the rear subframe and the unions at the front that causing me problems wont undo so im going to take that one all the way up to the brake valve area so how the hell do i get tha inlet manafold of as i have got all the studs out but the one on the drivers side right neer the brake valve any ideas folks please help as i want to go fishing and my bx is the only transport ive got.
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