Problem with steering rack/F Hub ball joint

sbraud · Post by **sbraud** » 01 Mar 2005, 23:53

Xantia '95
I’m replacing my front N/S hub and have hit a problem. Everything has come off without a hitch, Hub driveshaft nut, front strut, break calliper, bottom ball joint nut Etc etc… My problem is I’ve undone the steering rack to hub ball joint most of the way down it’s thread and then used ball joint link separator to release link, as per Haynes manual so as not to strip thread. Now when I try to undo the nut the remainder of the way, the ball joint and it’s thread turn with the nut and as the pin doesn’t have an allen key hole, I’ve no way of keeping the pin from rotating.
I there a work-around I can try? If I manage to retighten link using ball joint separator in reverse action, will the pin stay static as it did before I used splitter, so I can undo nut all the way or is that just wishful thinking? Anyone been here?
Any help or advice gratefully received.
Cheers
Steve

jeremy · Post by **jeremy** » 02 Mar 2005, 00:23

If I understand you correctly it is the track rod end ball joint which is causing the problem. Firstly they are not very expensive so if you damage it it can be reasily replaced.
You may be able to grip some part of the shaft with pliers, hold it still in its original place, or even hacksaw it off!
Jeremy

paranoid · Post by **paranoid** » 02 Mar 2005, 00:26

Try levering the rack joint back into the hole with a bar, get someone to lean/pull on the bar while you undo nut.

Richard Gallagher · Post by **Richard Gallagher** » 02 Mar 2005, 00:56

Steve, try lowering the car enough to be able to apply weight (The car) onto the back of the ball joint with a jack or solid object. This will cause friction to the ball joint, normally enough to lock it in position allowing you to undo the nut etc.

Post by **RichardW** » 02 Mar 2005, 02:47

I had this trouble replacing a track rod end on a Xantia - I sawed it off as I was replacing it anyway. You need to try and squeeze the joint together to get enough friction to allow you to undo the nut. A valve spring compressor maybe?

NiSk · Post by **NiSk** » 02 Mar 2005, 11:36

Put a bottle jack directly under the track rod end and pump it up enough to start taking the weight of the car. You should now be able to tighten the nut down. Wire brush the end of the stud and lubricate carefully (so the lubricant doesn't spill onto the cone). Unscrew the nut completely - the joint should separate easily now since you've already had the cone split.
//NiSk

sbraud · Post by **sbraud** » 03 Mar 2005, 00:13

Fixed - Cheers Gents.[;)][:D]
I used ball joint separator, yesterday evening, to lift track rod joint up enough to get some friction into it, which allowed me to get nut off. Luckily most of nut was undone, so it was just getting past the weathered bit at the end, but plenty of WD40 and cleaning helped also.
Anyway, new hub carrier on and all I need do is tighten and finishing off, when I’m feeling well enough.
Just checked out Haynes ( I know what’s coming) and it’s quoting 250Nm torque for lower arm ball joint to hub carrier!! I can’t believe this fairly thin pin will take anywhere near that amount?? I’ll see what the O/S torque is first I think
Cheers
Steve

Post by **RichardW** » 03 Mar 2005, 01:18

Steve,
That torque figure is for screwing the ball joint itself into the hub carrier. The figure for the nut on the bottom of taper the other side of the wishbone will be much lower.

sbraud · Post by **sbraud** » 03 Mar 2005, 23:51

Thanks Richard,
I hadn't thought of that... but knew fig was too high!
[:)]