I'm gonna try a get an O2 sensor from a non-Citroen dealer (they charge about five times as much as GSF does!)
1) How can I ensure that I get the correct replacement part? I'm pretty sure mine has four wires, as it has a heater circuit.
2) Do you have any tips that would ensure I get a good part?
3) Can it be replaced by the home mechanic without a special tool?
Thanks.
Oxygen Sensor Identifiers & Tips
Moderator: RichardW
Unless new types have come around -
Then there are 2 main types of Lambda sensors : 3wire and 4wire.
Threading is standardised as well.
The Lambda sensor is a generic sensor, which means it will always fit any engine - no calibration needed.
Down you go and look for the wires count.
I'm just wondering why you need a Lambda sensor for a 5year old car ?
They should last the lifetime of the car.
Then there are 2 main types of Lambda sensors : 3wire and 4wire.
Threading is standardised as well.
The Lambda sensor is a generic sensor, which means it will always fit any engine - no calibration needed.
Down you go and look for the wires count.
I'm just wondering why you need a Lambda sensor for a 5year old car ?
They should last the lifetime of the car.
-
Stuart McB
- Posts: 1635
- Joined: 03 Oct 2003, 00:50
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars:
- x 1
Why am I replacing one on a five year car?
I have a problem with the car that won't go away. I have had six difference mechanics look at it (four of them Citroen) and they can't tell me what is wrong. I'm going to have to replace the parts one by one (cheapest first) until it works. Can't sell car as-is.
Not only is it coming up to five years old, it has only done 30,000 miles.
I have a problem with the car that won't go away. I have had six difference mechanics look at it (four of them Citroen) and they can't tell me what is wrong. I'm going to have to replace the parts one by one (cheapest first) until it works. Can't sell car as-is.
Not only is it coming up to five years old, it has only done 30,000 miles.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by LeFrog</i>
Why am I replacing one on a five year car?
I have a problem with the car that won't go away. I have had six difference mechanics look at it (four of them Citroen) and they can't tell me what is wrong. I'm going to have to replace the parts one by one (cheapest first) until it works. Can't sell car as-is.
Not only is it coming up to five years old, it has only done 30,000 miles.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
What's the problem?
Maybe someone can shed some light.
Alan S
Why am I replacing one on a five year car?
I have a problem with the car that won't go away. I have had six difference mechanics look at it (four of them Citroen) and they can't tell me what is wrong. I'm going to have to replace the parts one by one (cheapest first) until it works. Can't sell car as-is.
Not only is it coming up to five years old, it has only done 30,000 miles.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
What's the problem?
Maybe someone can shed some light.
Alan S
Hi Alan
If only somebody could shed some light. I was very hopeful of receiving a smart diagnosis via a forums, but have had no luck.
The car vibrates/shakes at 1000rpm (in or out of gear). I get to 1000rpm by having a warm car with the air con on or cold fast idle. It is definately an engine problem and not a mount problem. The only other thing I could complain about is the jumpiness of the car when cold and I have noticed the recent introduction of hesitation up to 3000rpm.
When not at 1000rpm (a warm car at the idling with no air con on), the engine seems to be switching rich for too long before leveling out. You can tell this by the sound of the engine and the fact it shivers.
No fault codes. New plugs (same with old), air filter and injection cleaner. Not quite as bad if I disconnect the O2 sensor. This is why I am picking the O2 sensor.
Cheers.
If only somebody could shed some light. I was very hopeful of receiving a smart diagnosis via a forums, but have had no luck.
The car vibrates/shakes at 1000rpm (in or out of gear). I get to 1000rpm by having a warm car with the air con on or cold fast idle. It is definately an engine problem and not a mount problem. The only other thing I could complain about is the jumpiness of the car when cold and I have noticed the recent introduction of hesitation up to 3000rpm.
When not at 1000rpm (a warm car at the idling with no air con on), the engine seems to be switching rich for too long before leveling out. You can tell this by the sound of the engine and the fact it shivers.
No fault codes. New plugs (same with old), air filter and injection cleaner. Not quite as bad if I disconnect the O2 sensor. This is why I am picking the O2 sensor.
Cheers.