I have just flushed the water system on my Xantia TD and put new antifreeze in.
I now note that the fan keeps coming on even over a short journey, is the normal or have I done something wrong?
Sam
After flushing rad & system Xantia TD
Moderator: RichardW
I agree, you have got airlock, a good idea is to get an old plastice lemonade bottle and cut the bottom off, this fits into the expansion tank filler. Fill the bottle with water, undo the bleed cap on the hose going over the drivers side engine mount and then get the engine started. This should clear the air from the system.
Paul
PS, it works ok for me
Paul
PS, it works ok for me
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- Posts: 116
- Joined: 05 Mar 2003, 17:57
- Location: United Kingdom
- My Cars: BX TZD @ 250K miles (J reg),
Xantia TD @ 165K miles (R reg),
Xantia 2.1 TD (R reg)
and tow a caravan with them all (not at the same time)
Yep sounds like the dreaded CIT airlocks. Folks swear by the Bottle method as advised above. I have found on my old BX it takes me 3 good attempts to remove the airlocks.
Not sure about the bleed screw on teh Xantia TD but on the BX turbo D there is one on the rad and at least one on the thermostat housing.
I would squueze all the hoseworks to try and drive all bibbles to the surface.
If the Thermostat never opens becuase the engine has not got warm enough then bleeding will not be fully effective.
paulbn
Not sure about the bleed screw on teh Xantia TD but on the BX turbo D there is one on the rad and at least one on the thermostat housing.
I would squueze all the hoseworks to try and drive all bibbles to the surface.
If the Thermostat never opens becuase the engine has not got warm enough then bleeding will not be fully effective.
paulbn
If the heater element is staying cold it does suggest an airlock.
If the fan sensor switch is cold when the fans are running then you have an electrical fault.
What work have you done? - just draining and flushing in situ or have you removed hoses, radiator etc?
I suppose its possible you have shifted a plug of sludge which has blocked the heater - in which case you may be able to remove it using a garden hose and disconnecting the hoses from the heater. be careful a garden hose could run up to about 90 PSI whereas your coolingg system will blow off at 15.
jeremy
If the fan sensor switch is cold when the fans are running then you have an electrical fault.
What work have you done? - just draining and flushing in situ or have you removed hoses, radiator etc?
I suppose its possible you have shifted a plug of sludge which has blocked the heater - in which case you may be able to remove it using a garden hose and disconnecting the hoses from the heater. be careful a garden hose could run up to about 90 PSI whereas your coolingg system will blow off at 15.
jeremy