BX Brake pipe(s) HELP

A_Damn_Fool · Post by **A_Damn_Fool** » 21 Jan 2005, 19:54

OK slowly losing the battle of the BX.
Have to replace the LH rear brake pipe (and RH sometime v soon eg after I've replaced the LH one) does anyone have a diagram of how they are attached to the underside of the vehicle and where they are routed the haynes book of lies has no info on them of any use. also does anyone have any tips for getting the unions undone or actually getting a spanner onto the unions to get them undone, if you can imagine that these are in a worse state than my bleed nipples on the rear calipers (gave up on them in the end and got a pair from the breakers)
cheers
jon the fool

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 21 Jan 2005, 20:17

hello, Fool, do you mean the front-to-back pipes that run along the inside of the sill or the curly ones to each rear brake?
Whichever ones they are, they are held by little plastic clips and you just unclip them, carefully ,as the clips break....the easiest way to find where they go is to follow them along and mark them with chalk as you go.
The best way to undo the unions if you are replacing the pie is to cut the pipe with pliers or snips, and then use an 8mm hex socket on the union. In practice, although the pipes may be corroded, the unions will probably be easy to undo because they are put in at a very low torque figure. The only horrors are the ones to the rear suspension rams which can corrode permanantly into the ram.
When I did mine, I took off the back box and the spare wheel rack, but I didn't drop the rear subframe, and in retrospect this would have made access a whole lot easier!!

A_Damn_Fool · Post by **A_Damn_Fool** » 21 Jan 2005, 21:33

Hi bxbodger,
its the curly ones to the rear calipers, the pipes look like they are held in place by two clamps one before the curly bit from the 3 way connector and again after the curly bit before they pass over the rear arm to the caliper they are held by what I think is a 10mm bolt for the later and a 10mm nut and bolt for the former its just that i had a quick go at loosening them but they seem to be rusted solid as well (not sure of the size as I'm not sure I've cleaned all the rust away). imaging all the unions have corroded into their seating just like you've described for the rams!!!!!
I'm starting to think this has spent a few months (a year+) sitting in a puddle as anything that can get rusty at the back end is well and truly rusted! [:(]
dejectedly
jon the fool.

bxbodger · Post by **bxbodger** » 21 Jan 2005, 22:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">the pipes look like they are held in place by two clamps <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I know the bits you mean- these were rusted solid on mine as well-one sheared off so I just cut the remnants of the old pipes away from both and left them- I didn't bother bolting the new pipes down to them, that was 2 MOT's ago and it hasn't caused any trouble.

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 21 Jan 2005, 23:55

You can get those brackets off if you undo the 2 bolts each side that hold the anti roll bar on, the bracket/clamp is trapped in the joint, then you can get at the little devils, i tend to use genuine citroen pipes, there not expensive and are pre bent which gives a handy clue. I just tweak the long front to rears and wangle them through the gap, another tip is to heat the unions using a blowlamp (mine are invariably diesel engined)
Stewart

A_Damn_Fool · Post by **A_Damn_Fool** » 22 Jan 2005, 03:16

Cheers Gents,
Have already got the pipes from GSF, they have a shop which is 8 mins walk from where I'm working on the car [:)]
will play more with the pipes on sunday
jon the fool

Homer · Post by **Homer** » 22 Jan 2005, 13:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by bxbodger

The best way to undo the unions if you are replacing the pie is to cut the pipe with pliers or snips, and then use an 8mm hex socket on the union.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I would go with that method, don't even try it with a spanner.
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">In practice, although the pipes may be corroded, the unions will probably be easy to undo because they are put in at a very low torque figure.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
That depends who put them in. You often find someone who doesn't quite understand how the unions work has given them a right old bit of welly. hence I would go straight for the socket method to be on the safe side.