Happy New Year to everyone on the forum.
There is 'other way' to adjust the height, but you need an inspection pit. Instead of rotating the clamp (the one on the roll-bar, not smaller one on the rod, connected to the height lever), it's easier to release it, raise or lower the car by hand for the desired amount and tighten the clamp. After height is set, it's important to check if small bracket at the end of the rod, connected to the height lever, is centered around vertical 'bracket pointer' and move it forwards or backwards if necesarry. It's very simple, once you know how the system works, but some experimenting is needed anyway. But quite a number of mechanics don't know how to do this (or don't care).
Also, check if height correction is working fine. When you sit on the boot, the car should start to self-level within 5-10 sec.
Rear height being wrong 10 mm will have very little influence on the behavior of the car.
During sphere change, usually some air is left trapped in the suspension cylinders, causing softer ride, but it shouldn't last more than a few days.
How long does it take, before rear end sinks to the bump stops? About 15 min is still within the tolerances, otherwise you should find element internally leaking. It can be rear cylinders, rear height corrector or brake doseur valve in your case. This leaking, if severe, could cause suspension bottoming on the really big bumps. If not, and height is correct, something is wrong with spheres.
BX susp. is too soft
Moderator: RichardW
it takes about 1-1.5 minutes for the rear to sink all the way, but the strange thing is that for example right after i replaced the accum. sphare, it was o.k. for 2-3 days.
and after i had a leak and fixed it- also was o.k. for a couple days.
Thanks Jeremy - the link goas exactly to the right place, i think that my problem was i had only the front of the car on ramps, and also i didn't know to what side i need to turn it - so i will try again tomorrow.
Elad.
and after i had a leak and fixed it- also was o.k. for a couple days.
Thanks Jeremy - the link goas exactly to the right place, i think that my problem was i had only the front of the car on ramps, and also i didn't know to what side i need to turn it - so i will try again tomorrow.
Elad.
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<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by wonderd</i>
Well, should i give up trying?
should i let the car sink as fast as it wants?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yep, that's about it. Let her do whatever it wants to.
I have always found hydraulic systems function very differently (usually much better) for a short time after they have been dismantled, however they soon go back to being there usual old selves [:(] Usually they ride better & stay up for longer ... Just long enough for you to think "Yes !!! I've fixed it [:D]"
seeya,
Shane L.
Well, should i give up trying?
should i let the car sink as fast as it wants?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Yep, that's about it. Let her do whatever it wants to.
I have always found hydraulic systems function very differently (usually much better) for a short time after they have been dismantled, however they soon go back to being there usual old selves [:(] Usually they ride better & stay up for longer ... Just long enough for you to think "Yes !!! I've fixed it [:D]"
seeya,
Shane L.
Well, if you plan to keep the car for more than a few months, I'll suggest tracing the cause of fast sinking anyway, because internal leak is 10-15 times above the factory tolerances (this tolerance is 3 ccm/min per hydraulic element). Otherwise, if it's rear susp. cylinder sail, it may completely fail and leave you without rear suspension. You can drive home slowly in that condition, but it's not very comfortable, and rear brakes won't be working
On the other side, it's not easy to find a mechanic willing to do that (maybe some older Citroen freak, about 70 years old, like here)
Did you also change LHM when you cleaned the tank? New one is clean and more fluid, so it's normal for the car to sink faster after that
On the other side, it's not easy to find a mechanic willing to do that (maybe some older Citroen freak, about 70 years old, like here)
Did you also change LHM when you cleaned the tank? New one is clean and more fluid, so it's normal for the car to sink faster after that
First of all, i am planning to keep the car until it dies and not a moment sooner. second, i am not intending to give up 'till i find the cause for my problem - the fact that it's a little more complicated then replacing spark plugs should not scare me or anyone else who likes citroens and loves working on them, fixing them and enjoy their comfort ride, otherwise, we should all find ourselfs a nice boring Toyota.
Third and last - yes i have changed oil (at least some of it because i didn't have enough so i had to clean part of the old oil and put it back in the system).
The thing i can not understand is why whenever i 'open' the hidraulic system (accumu./reserv./main pipes) then for the next day or two it all works fine???
Third and last - yes i have changed oil (at least some of it because i didn't have enough so i had to clean part of the old oil and put it back in the system).
The thing i can not understand is why whenever i 'open' the hidraulic system (accumu./reserv./main pipes) then for the next day or two it all works fine???