Converting a 1.4d 106 to a 1.5d (citroen)

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 22 Nov 2004, 16:28

One will be the stop solenoid, the other most likely the fuel enrichment/advance cold start device, live 12volts when ignition on is most likely to work.
Stewart

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » 22 Nov 2004, 16:33

Hi Taipan.
I don't know what the two wires to the pump could be; usually a 'simple' diesel engine only needs a feed to the stop solenoid, however I only have experience of the AX 1.4D and 1.5D. If the engine is out of a Saxo, perhaps they had a 'coded' security system, or a hybrid electronic pump.
Perhaps if you could post a picture of the pump we could be of more help...
I've never encountered a 1.4 to 1.5 engine conversion before, certainly on the AX this would be slightly complicated by the fact that the steering rack gearing is different; the 1.5 is cast iron rather than alloy, and so is a far heavier engine. i would imagine the springs would be different too.
IME, the 1.5 is actually slower than the 1.4, but it is supposed to be more reliable (although noisier). My mother had both a 1.4 and a 1.5 AX D, and the 1.4 was a much more pleasent car to drive, but then I did have to rebuild the engine...
Good luck,

Post by **Jon** » 22 Nov 2004, 18:40

Is this the Lucas pump, ot the Bosch? On the Lucas pump the 2 wire connector is listed as follows "injection pump Switch" and Citroen say that Standard Ignition, Coded ignition and Key immobilser all use the same "injection pump switch". So I guess that a feed would have gone from the immobilisor to the switch, and maybe the other terminal was ign +? Guessing really.

rotodiesel · Post by **rotodiesel** » 23 Nov 2004, 01:30

If your 1.5 engine has a Bosch pump, the two cables are: Fixed connector to rear pump bracket - egr microswitch, Floating connector (4 pole) immobilised feed to shutoff solenoid.
You will have great fun getting fuel out of this pump if you don't fit the rest of the immobiliser system. The shutoff solenoid is behind the cast iron cover secured with shearhead bolts - there is also a recessed rollpin. They really don't want you in there!
The 1.5 engine is better in all respects other than weight compared with the 1.4. It also develops more power, but needs the correct gearbox and wheels.
rotodiesel.

beezer · Post by **beezer** » 23 Nov 2004, 03:26

Switch will be the EGR valve. Rotodiesel is the expert here. The solenoid will be covered right enough.

wheeler · Post by **wheeler** » 23 Nov 2004, 04:28

all UK spec saxos have an imobiliser whether it be keypad or transponder,it is desinged to prevent it starting by feeding it direct so thats why it wont start this way,it needs digital signals from the keypad/CPH unit to unlock the solenoid.i think your best bet is to remove the pump & strip the cover off so you can wire an ignition feed direct to the stop solenoid.

samcro · Post by **samcro** » 23 Nov 2004, 16:08

The switch on top of the lucas fuel pump operated by the accelerator arm is the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) switch - as per previous post. Mine fell to bits recently with no serious effect on the engine - a little bit of power loss. Currently it's hard wired closed because I don't have a replacement microswitch. See other post: http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... C_ID=10238
The switch operates a vacuum powered valve that lets exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold for some 'emissions reduction'.
Will have a look at my pump to see what other wires there are and where they go.
Car is a 1.5D 106 from 1998

jonathan_dyane · Post by **jonathan_dyane** » 24 Nov 2004, 00:10

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by taipan
You'd think 3 wires would be easy to get round, but no combo of earths and lives that we try will get it to go?[xx(] We are going to remove the cover today and try and direct wire the solenoid, or replace it with a simpler one live feed type. It loos like the cover is not designed to come off either! I cant work off its been fitted with shear bolts or if they come through from the other side??? It's never easy....[:D]
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
It isn't quite as simple as that, there is a computer attatched to the pump, and unless it receives the correct code it will not energise the stop solenoid.
When my BX injector pump failed I fitted a replacement from an immobilised Xsara.
I had to remove the shielding (tease shear bolts around with punch - they aren't too tight) and remove and discard the computer module and low level stop solenoid. I then fitted my mounting plate to the end and my normal stop solenoid and all was well.
Unfortunatly you will need to remove the pump from the engine though...
Good luck,

samcro · Post by **samcro** » 25 Nov 2004, 16:33

Taipan,
If you've got the EGR microswitch on top of your fuel pump can you check out what polarity it is?
Unplug it from the loom and check the resistance of it when the plunger on it is not pressed, then press the plunger and check the resistance again.
This switch has corroded away inside on my car and now doesn't work. I'm thinking of hard-wiring it open or shut, thus forcing the valve on the inlet/outlet manifold permanently open/shut. One way there is a small power increas over the other way.
Don't worry if you don't have the switch.
Thanks

samcro · Post by **samcro** » 29 Nov 2004, 19:00

Taipan..
Not sure if I was very clear...
It sounds like your injector pump has the EGR switch mounted on it. It's the cam activated microswitch right on top of the pump. What i'm after is whether this switch is normally open circuit or normally closed (when the cam is not pushing the button in). It shouldn't matter if you've not got the loom to plug the switch into as it's only the switch I'm interested in.
In my experience the car goes fine with the the EGR inactive, though there appears to be a slight power increase with the valve either open or closed. I'm trying to work out which, hence the request to determine which way the pump mounted switch goes.
check also thread
http://www.andyspares.com/discussionfor ... C_ID=10451
Cheers

samcro · Post by **samcro** » 30 Nov 2004, 16:44

Yeah, I wouldn't mind getting a hold of it if you're binning it otherwise. Am thinking of selling my car and it doesn't look too good with a loose plug hanging in the engine bay. Getting it out in one piece might be a problem as mine was threaded through part of the injector pump. I ended up cutting the plug off so I could extract it. If you have to cut the wire then do it about 1/2 way along so the switch and plug can be easily soldered together again.
I'm in Aberdeen, Scotland. Will posting it be the best way of delivery?
Cheers

wheeler · Post by **wheeler** » 01 Dec 2004, 04:13

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by samcro

In my experience the car goes fine with the the EGR inactive, though there appears to be a slight power increase with the valve either open or closed. I'm trying to work out which, hence the request to determine which way the pump mounted switch goes.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
the power will be slightly better with the valve shut,just shove a small ballbearing down the vaccum pipe at the valve & it will stay shut all the time.

oilyspanner · Post by **oilyspanner** » 01 Dec 2004, 23:53

Blanking off thr EGR is a known mod on Transit vans, improves economy and power, you probably are doing a good thing.
Stewart