Mandrake wrote: ↑17 Jul 2019, 13:39
I have my doubts about this theory.
More likely someone previous who didn't know any better topped the oil level in the reservoir tank up far too high - expecting it to be near the top when the car is in normal height, which of course it should not be.
Lower the suspension and all the excess oil returns to the tank and it will quite literally blow the cap off especially if the filler cap breather pipe is blocked with dirt...
I'd go with this theory as well ......
Luckily when I bought my first one I put the suspension into HIGH first and when the float in the sight glass was still as high as it could go I knew it had been over filled .... I siphoned nearly 2 ltrs out before the float dropped to the correct level.
On my 4th Citroën Xantia (X2 HDi (110))
Citroën sAXo Memphis Mk II
Gone
Xantia x3 (2.0i TCT Activa)(2.1 TD SX)(1.9 TD Estate)
Xsara HDi VTR Coupe / Saxo 1.1i / BX 1.9 d / 4 x AX's (1.4D /1.5D)
2 x 406 (1.9 TD Estate/2.1 TD Saloon) 405 1.9 D Estate 306 1.9 XTDT Hatch
I wouldn't change the spheres until the LHM is at the right level, a Citrobics session has been run, and then taken for a decent test run. It is likely the spheres are OK (but having spares is a good thing).
If you DO change the spheres it may be helpful to, every six months or so, loosen them all of by a quarter turn and then do them back up hand tight. This should stop them getting biblically tight over time, requiring a lot of brute force to replace them.
James ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
Small thing... It has been known for the LHM reservoir float indicator to get stuck! To check, just unplug it, and rotate about 90° anticlockwise, and it will lift out. A purely mechanical float device.
Orange-yellow disc indicates the level, not the gold metal one.
Just popped out and checked the level indicator. It was not stuck, so it is quite overfilled. I will follow your advice on loosening the spheres, esp in spring after all the salty slush roads we usually get over here. While driving from work today I heard the servo pump (I think) starting to make some whining noise in all corners and some on idle aswell.
When the fluid is at the right level you should (if the accumulator sphere on the low front of the engine is in good condition) hear a sort of clicking noise every minute or so. This is the accumulator maintaining the pressure. If that clicking is below 30 seconds the accumulator sphere is on the way out. It could then be worth replacing ALL the spheres at the same time, as you cannot easily be certain of their condition.
In the past I have bought spheres from AEP Direct. Their prices are fair (and if your order is over £50 P&P is free (well, it was when I used them)), and they do a fast turn around. Make sure to put the vehicle reg on the notes, otherwise they will contact you to confirm that you have ordered the right spheres, which will add a delay.
Oh, if you were to post up the VIN (which will, for security reasons, be obscured so only Moderators can read it) a Moderator with the right access can then let you know a lot more about your Xantia, including everything she had when she rolled out of the factory.
James ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
AEP Direct does have great prices, it does occur to me that I didn't mention I'm over in Norway so the shipping from them are killing me. (because Norway we have to add +25% VAT on total Inc shipping +20£ handling fee)
I have an order for:
70 bar (comfort) fronts from Monroe
40 bar (comfort) rears from Monroe
62 bar accumulator sphere
Monroe anti sink sphere.
All from autodoc.
Order isn't shipped so is possible to change or cancel for a few days.
Vin is : VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
My Cars: 91 BX TZD Estate. Dead but loved 407 HDI 136 auto C4 2l petrol coupé 2010 Dispatch III HDI 90 AND a 1980 Z1000ST AND a 1983 GPz1100 inj AND a 1995 Zephyr 1100 AND a 1980 Z650 (my moped)
Autodoc seems to have half the shipping cost compared to AEP Direct. I do live close to the Swedish border so I can ship there to get out of Norwegian taxes and handling fees. Piecesauto24 is a subsidiary of Autodoc, so the same. MisterAuto had claims to send without having to pay taxes and handling, but they do not have the anti sink or front accumulator in stock.
After a bit of math, AEP Direct shipped to my nearest Swedish post office will be the cheaper option of ~180£. Same parts to Norway ~261£. From autodoc I'll still be sitting at ~200£, but including spark plugs and all serviceable filters.
Hope these spheres sort out your problems. I'd bleed the front and rear brake circuits too to ensure everything is good (air can get trapped in there) It's a different technique to other cars in case you are unfamiliar.
Something that would not be a bad idea is to do a Citrobics session every few months. It is (to all intents and purposes) an aerobics session for your Citroen, and helps to keep things moving smoothly and evenly. You have to do it with the engine running, the handbrake on, and (between movements) wait for a minute or so to allow the LHM to settle back down again (it can slightly foam up, and you don't want even a slight possibility of air being drawn back in (that shouldn't happen, but why risk it?)).
First, turn the steering from lock to lock a few times, with the aforementioned pause between locks.
Next, take the suspension to full height. Wait again, then, holding down the brake pedal, take the suspension to its lowest setting. The nose will drop, but the back will remain high. After a minute or so (or when the cramps set in!) release the brake pedal (and hang on!); the back will drop rapidly. Wait again, then (holding down the brake pedal again) raise her to full height. The nose will rise, but the back should not. Wait again, then release the footbrake. The back will come up quickly. Repeat this a few times. If, at any time (with handbrake and footbrake on) the back moves, it suggests the rear brakes are weak and not holding. If this were to happen I suggest you check the rear brakes.
There are two reasons for doing Citrobics sessions. First, as things get a proper workout, it keeps the hydraulics systems working freely. Second (as the LHM is also a lubricant) all of the parts in the hydraulics get lubricated to their full extent.
Last edited by Hell Razor5543 on 24 Jul 2019, 11:08, edited 1 time in total.
James ex BX 1.9
ex Xantia 2.0HDi SX
ex Xantia 2.0HDi LX
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
Ex C5 2.0HDi VTR
C5 2.2HDi VTX+
Yes, I am paranoid, but am I paranoid ENOUGH?
Out amongst the stars, looking for a world of my own!
Siphoned out ~1,8l of LHM yesterday, going to do a citrobics session as soon as I can! Every corner seems to have the same amount of bounce and it seems to start rising/falling quicker now with the right amount of LHM in the system.
(because Norway we have to add +25% VAT on total Inc shipping +20£ handling fee)