New Toy (Xantia V6)

Citroenmad · Post by **Citroenmad** » 06 May 2011, 14:22

Ive never used traffic master despite most of the C5s having it. One of them decided to work at one point even though it wasn't subscribed too. Ive managed without it this far

It was deleted on C5s from around 2006, mine doesn't have it.

stedmancinques · Post by **stedmancinques** » 06 May 2011, 18:30

That makes two of us with a 'poverty spec' Exclusive, Jim
No heated seats

No headlamp washers

No sunroof

You wouldn't believe the aggravation (actually you probably would) I had with a BX when the sunroof stuck in the open position.

Everything else seems to work as it should, apart from the cruise control

but I see there's an excellent thread on here on what to look for; I asked the previous owner, who said that he'd never tried to use it

Had an excellent drive home,

all the way!

There is one thing that puzzles; on the extreme left of the dash is a red LED, which the handbook labels as 'Interior Air temperature and alarm warning lamp' It's on all the time, whereas on my other Xantia it only comes on (flashing) after I have locked the car. Any ideas?

For those wishing for visual stimulation, I'll take some piccies tomorrow, (after I have found some oil for the SIP compressor- my son ran it not noticing that the dipstick had come out, and has christened his garage wall- sigh)
Cheers, Kevin F.

red_dwarfers · Post by **red_dwarfers** » 06 May 2011, 21:36

stedmancinques wrote: There is one thing that puzzles; on the extreme left of the dash is a red LED, which the handbook labels as 'Interior Air temperature and alarm warning lamp' It's on all the time, whereas on my other Xantia it only comes on (flashing) after I have locked the car. Any ideas?

I had this problem when the interior turned into a swimming pool (windscreen scuttle wasn't stuck down properly after a replacement screen) The alarm ECU is located under the front passenger seat so it became immersed in water and the light stuck on. I was lucky though as soon as I had the scuttle resealed, removed the carpets and dried everything out, the light went out and everything went back to normal

Just to rule it out, pull off the door seal on the passengers side, lift up the carpet slightly and stick your hand/arm under to see if there is any sign of dampness. There may not be any water as such because the soundproofing works very well as a sponge.

stedmancinques · Post by **stedmancinques** » 07 May 2011, 16:25

Cruise control mended and working

Thanks, Jim for your excellent 'How to'. It was the number one cause on the list- the split pipe. I found access easier by removing the horns that sit just behind the liner as well. A quick snip and a dob of vaseline and all is now well. As I am (a) disabled and (b) not getting younger, sadly, it was a feature that I particularly wanted for long journeys to cut down on the legache. (The earache will always be there, but she's gone off to stay with a friend for the w/end. Must remove packaged and bottled evidence before Monday afternoon)

Thanks also, Red_Dwarfers for the suggestion, but sliding my hand down under the carpet revealed all to be drizabone. I am going to splash out on a Lexia- who knows, it might give me a clue, but I am not buying it just for that purpose.

Cheers, Kevin F.

The old chap, a lovely man,

stedmancinques · Post by **stedmancinques** » 07 May 2011, 16:30

Woops, hit the wrong button!

As I was saying, the old chap, a lovely man, has always had everything done at a Citroen garage. What surprised me looking at the printout of work that came with the car, was that four years ago, at 38000 miles (it's now done 42!) he had to have the ABS ecu replaced, as well as a wheel sensor (os/f). Are the ABS ecu's really that unreliable? Or was he just unlucky?

Cheers, Kevin F.

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 07 May 2011, 17:11

Haha, when reading that, I thought you were signing off!!

Most likely a sensor but garages usually try a carpet bombing "change that
and if it doesn't fix it move on to the next item on the list" process of
elimination and charge for everything even it it wasn't necessary.

stedmancinques · Post by **stedmancinques** » 08 May 2011, 17:46

Red light solved.

In the days before the sunlit uplands of retirement, an essential item of preparation that I always taught the boys before exams was 'RTFQ', where R stands for 'Read', 'T' for 'The' and 'Q' for 'Question'.

In my case it has to be RTFM or RTFH (Manual or Handbook)

The continuous red light indicates that the volumetric sensor has been cancelled. Relocking the car (Button A) and setting the Alarm (Button B) restores the system to normal. And it has.

When I bought the 2.0 auto eight years ago, the dealer knocked off £200 because the remote didn't work. As I had never had a car with such a thing before, I didn't miss it, and have always locked it with the key. Now I have solid sounding clunks and jolly flashing indicators at the press of a button- there's posh for you! Cheers, Kevin F.

stedmancinques · Post by **stedmancinques** » 08 May 2011, 22:07

Bugger it

It only returns to normal, ie flashing with the car locked and the alarm set; goes out with just the doors locked. However, if you start it up, the red light stays on, volumetric sensor enabled or disabled

andmcit · Post by **andmcit** » 08 May 2011, 22:20

Can't say I've ever noticed but I'll watch mine tomorrow for you to see if it behaves differently!