CX - Stinkwheel is right!

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tomsheppard
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Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 15:46

CX - Stinkwheel is right!

Post by tomsheppard » 30 Nov 2004, 00:22

Damn' thing needs a thermostat' cos it is jammed open.
Costs £3, half that of a BX. Well I was warned.
Has anybody tips for removing the headlining?
Car passed structural audit today and was steam cleaned around its engine bay.
There was a bill for undersealing in the service records, two years ago. It is very good underneath.
I telephoned the old Doctor's daughter 'cos he'd left his stethoscope in the door pocket and I had been asked to return anything personal that I found.
The car had been looked after by the garage he had used for the last FIFTY years!
They have had Nine further enquiries about the car.
All I can say to those who were unsuccessful is :
"YA BOO SUCKS!"[}:)]
BTW CLonker Parkson on TG last night is reported to have said that of cars unsafe at speed, the CX came instantly to mind.
Might explain the nine enquiries. After all we know how much he knows about cars, don't we?

Stinkwheel
Posts: 555
Joined: 28 May 2004, 01:02

Post by Stinkwheel » 30 Nov 2004, 00:39

See, Im never far from the mark.
Unsafe at speed??
I once 'performance tested' my old CX 25 Gti Turbo 1 series 2 car on an unamed public road against a driver in a BMW M5. Now i know that this cars speedo did Over-read by a fair bit but when thew BMW driver decided to call a halt to proceedings and drive normally again I had seen 145mph indicated on my speedo. It was as solid as a rock. But the water temp LCD was registering higher than I'd ever seen it before.
Try removing the gearing box thing attached to the speedo cable that controls the diravi and adjusts it for high assist low speed and low assist high speed work, then they get nervous at speed.

VisaGTi16v
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Joined: 27 Sep 2002, 21:39

Post by VisaGTi16v » 30 Nov 2004, 01:42

heh thats some going. I did a top speed test in my zx in france last year returning back from le mans and saw an indicated 137 which is the book top speed and that felt nice and stable. Wouldnt have wanted to go round any sort of bend though :)
infact just for you heres a cx i took a photo off on the said le mans trip. Did so as I love comically long badges, ie CX 25 Prestige Turbo 2. Brilliant! :) Looks like its had a ding in the right rear though
http://homepages.nildram.co.uk/~visa/pi ... I_0338.JPG

Stinkwheel
Posts: 555
Joined: 28 May 2004, 01:02

Post by Stinkwheel » 30 Nov 2004, 02:14

Too be honest I do not normally drive like a loon but in that instance it had to be done. Nice picture of that CX visaGti16v. I cannot stress how much i love CX's I really really love them. The perfect garage for me would include a couple of CX's, a dyane, a 2cv, a visa diesel, maybe a gti 115ch, a BX16v phase 1 and a dodge charger (owned all these at some point apart from the dodge)

alan s
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Post by alan s » 30 Nov 2004, 03:29

Now, removing the hoodlining; long time since I did & it depends on the type but at a guess, yours should have the separate side pieces with the main centre piece being stuck to what appears to be a big piece of moulded cardboard. Remove the side pieces which I think are clipped on place using "christmas tree" clip type of holders. Remove interior light and switches for interior light and rear window demister. I think it's then held front & rear by the window rubbers right at the ends by a couple of mm.
As a clue, don't try to refit the hoodlining that by now has separated from the cardboard base as I doubt you'll either get it to fit without bubbles (that look bloody aweful) or you'll find the glue will bleed through.
Instead, grab an offcut of plush carpet and using "contact adhesive" or similar, cut & fit it to the cardboard base leaving a small area at both ends for where it sits under the rubber. Refit, then try matching a vinyl or leather trim for the side pieces. This is why we opted for black; looks a million $s, and if all else fails, a black vinyl paint will cover these side panels well. Depending on the colour of the car, other colours can be used, but black is the easiest to match. The vinyl or leather is then stuck to the side panels after the original material has been removed (if it hasn't already been removed by the wind passing over it.)
I knew Clarkson had a head the shape of a Jelly bean but I didn't realise he thinks like one as well; how on earth could anyone come up with a 'dangerous at speed in a CX?' Obviously someone who never drove one for any period.[8)]
My late father-in-law who I often told didn't deserve to die in a bed, was driving his that we talked him into buying several years ago up the Gold Coast Highway (long before the days of speed cameras) and had a car pull alongside him and blow the horn; he was doing 110kph at the time. "He wants to race" goes through his mind, so he bumps it up to 130, whereupon the other guy pulls alongside again and is saying something...."now he's getting abusive....I'll show him" so up to 150 when the guy by this time has wound down his passengers side window....."Yerve got a flat tyre ya mad ol' b@$+@rd!!!" comes the voice from the other car.
He pulls over, gets out, walks to the back and looks and sure enough; nothing wrong..."I knew he was just having a go at me" he says as he walks back around the car and then notices it's the N/S front (well what bit's left of it anyway) and this was in a 76 CX 2200 super with <b>no power steering.</b>
Not exactly what I'd call a dangerous vehicle based on that.
Alan S

tomsheppard
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Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 15:46

Post by tomsheppard » 30 Nov 2004, 07:17

That's a funny story Alan! Thanks for the data on removing the headlining. The way you put it on without bubbles is to spray the backing board with a contact spray adhesive
which you let go tacky, nearly fully dry. You wash the old headlining and apply it while quite damp to the glue, smoothing it out by hand.gentle heat evaporates off the water and cures the glue.

alan s
RIP 2010
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Post by alan s » 30 Nov 2004, 08:02

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by tomsheppard</i>


That's a funny story Alan! Thanks for the data on removing the headlining. The way you put it on without bubbles is to spray the backing board with a contact spray adhesive
which you let go tacky, nearly fully dry. You wash the old headlining and apply it while quite damp to the glue, smoothing it out by hand.gentle heat evaporates off the water and cures the glue.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Exactly correct Tom; in theory.
In practice, unless they've changed it or you aren't using the original material, we're talking about a very thin (almost see through )felt type material with granuals of hardened contact rolling around the back of it.
This is where the carpet trick comes into it's own.
With the contact then sprayed on, that works real well. Using the raggy felt usually means you're wearing it for a hat within a month; it gives you that "Eastern appearance" kinda like a Birka.[B)]
Alan S

DoubleChevron
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Joined: 22 Sep 2003, 18:06

Post by DoubleChevron » 30 Nov 2004, 14:46

Hi guys,
aren't we talking about a Series II CX here ??? I think you just unbolt/clip the roof lining as a single piece and lift it out (as opposed to the series I cars where you'll almost certainly destroy the roof lining that's held up by wires and glue). This is a job I need to do to my car.
BTW: That thermastat ... Betcha you shear all the 3bolts off. Don't be upset/surprised if you need to pull the water pump off in order to extract the broken studs.
seeya,
Shane L.

Stinkwheel
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Joined: 28 May 2004, 01:02

Post by Stinkwheel » 30 Nov 2004, 23:54

Ahhh now i can agree with shane on this one, I had a 25tri safari that i did the pump on, all the thermostat bolts broke despite best precautions, the water pump goes on and off quite easily though.

alan s
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Post by alan s » 01 Dec 2004, 01:52

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by DoubleChevron</i>

Hi guys,
aren't we talking about a Series II CX here ??? I think you just unbolt/clip the roof lining as a single piece and lift it out (as opposed to the series I cars where you'll almost certainly destroy the roof lining that's held up by wires and glue). This is a job I need to do to my car.
BTW: That thermastat ... Betcha you shear all the 3bolts off. Don't be upset/surprised if you need to pull the water pump off in order to extract the broken studs.
seeya,
Shane L.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Shane,
I think the one he's talking about here is not the one with the one piece felt looking lining with the series of perforations through the centre, but the one that is in one piece up the centre with a couple of curved pieces that ran above the doors. This was the same as my old silver '81 2400 the one that was written off in that tailender. The centre piece comes out seperately. The ones with the wire were in the earlier ones.
As far as removing the water pump goes, I've always stuffed around for so long before I started that it wasn't a problem; just hit it with heat, tap with a small hammer and then apply Penetrene every day for a week or so & by the time it comes to doing the job, I've managed to get away with it. Beauty is, unlike modern cars, you don't have to dismantle half the car to get access and then replace a cambelt in teh process.
Alan S

tomsheppard
Posts: 1801
Joined: 19 Dec 2002, 15:46

Post by tomsheppard » 01 Dec 2004, 02:57

Well, I busted all three and two of 'em came out so far without drilling!