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Posted: 12 Jan 2009, 18:36
by andmcit
superloopy1 wrote:The 'new' strut tops are the chunkier kind, 2005 with the 'bump', if I
remember rightly.

So I should be asking for a part number which corresponds to a later RP than
mine (6806) then?

If I'm reading things correctly this should then fit my car along with the new
strut top given that the bottom diameter appears to be unchanged according
to previous posters.

Does this sound about right?
There's no absolute concrete certainty if you're not sure of the part number
for the replacement strut top, but judging by the 'bump' on the forward face
and the fact the gaiter on your car won't fit the the new strut top, it sounds
very likely you need the later part number fitment bellows - I was told I
automatically needed the new gaiter by the Parts counter guy when I
bought a new strut top. Yes, the lower ring on the outer main strut body
is the same as the new bellows gaiter fits onto the original strut.
superloopy1 wrote:You got a 'new' part number I can look up and order at all ?
I have two number for the bellows as mentioned according to the RP number

Until RP 07244 96019316 CYLINDER BOOT 25.91 GBP with VAT
After RP 07245 0000527192 CYLINDER BOOT 11.52 GBP with VAT

If you look at the two gaiters pictured above somewhere there is clearly a
bigger molded collar on the larger diameter end compared to the old one
and a close look at the strut top bottom collar shows a 45degree bevel
on the lip with a noticeably bigger collar compared to the older design.
I'm wondering if the redesign attempted to beef the whole lot up including
the collar the bellows is gripped onto.

BTW, are you sure the big top nut isn't nyloc? I'd torque it to the required
torque (I'll see if I can find the figure for you) and put the threadlock on to
be safe rather than sorry.

Andrew

Posted: 12 Jan 2009, 19:22
by red_dwarfers
superloopy1 wrote: To the people who've managed to re-use their gaitors ... a question.

Did you fit 'new' or 'recovered' strut tops :?:
I fitted 'new' strut tops with my old gaitors.

I wondered why a few people had trouble reusing their old gaitors, saying they wouldn't fit :lol:

And for your question regarding the beefiness after the design change of the 'tops. My rusty old 'tops were the newer version, they didn't have any rubber bumps on the front.
I do hope that these brand new 'tops I have on now will last more than another 10 years as I can imagine if I still have the car, it will be an absolute sod to get hold of them :lol:

Posted: 15 Jan 2009, 13:02
by ACTIVE8
At least this problem with the strut tops isn't known about by general public, because we certainly get enough critics (who are unfounded & ignorant of the real facts & benefits) regarding the suspension & the spheres.

Imagine what it would be like if they had more information to use against us about strut tops!

Posted: 27 Jan 2009, 16:45
by CitroJim
Good work Mike :D Alweays a good idea to replace those little 3.5mm seals with new ones in any case. They're available from GSF and cost pennies.

Not seen the nut size difference although I could hve swaorn all the ones I've done were 24mm. I say that as I was scratching around for a 25mm socket the other day for a different job and it's one size I don't have..

FatherJack noticed a difference in handling on his after replacement but one of his strut tops was really bad; on the verge of letting go..

Did either of yours look anything like this?

Image

Posted: 27 Jan 2009, 17:42
by CitroJim
Yes, I've always reused the original nuts Mike. I see no reason not too as they're not "nylocs" or locking in any other way as fars as I know.

Posted: 27 Jan 2009, 18:14
by andmcit
It seems you've been given the hydractive nut rather than the correct
24mm one which would explain it!

Andrew

Posted: 27 Jan 2009, 20:56
by CitroJim
superloopy1 wrote: Jim,

My last question on this subject came back with the reply that ThreadLoc wasn't necessary as these WERE nyloc nuts, that's the reason I chose to replace rather than re-use :?

I was going to do both :wink: :wink:
I must go and check Mike! To be honest, on all the ones I've done, they have always looked like rather squat plain nuts to me..

Hold on, I'll go and have a look at the V6 in a tic...

Posted: 27 Jan 2009, 21:22
by CitroJim
Just had a look at the Strut Top Nuts on the V6..

It does not look like a Nyloc, just a plain nut as far as I can see..

Image

Were the new nuts you had supplied Nylocs Mike? Maybe MK2 Xantias had them or it was a late modification perhaps? Certainly MK2 and late production strut tops and gaiters are different to MK1 items.

To be honest, I've never looked at these nuts on a MK2.. My V6 is a late MK1.

Interesting.

Posted: 27 Jan 2009, 22:31
by andmcit
Do'h! :oops:

Torque setting' totally slipped my scattered mind! Lots on at the moment.
Will update with info asap!

I'm certain the topnut ISN'T nyloc and just needs to be firmly tightened
without the need for threadloc. It's holding a taper and sealing a pair
of O ring seals.

Andrew

Posted: 27 Jan 2009, 23:07
by andmcit
Mike,

the torque for the top nut is 4.5 daN.m

strut mount x4 bolts is 2.5
anti roll bar drop link top/bottom; 4
bottom balljoint 4.5
strut pinch bolt securing hub 5.4
hub nut on CV/driveshaft 32
wheelbolt 9
wishbone x3 bolts 8.5

Andrew

Posted: 26 Feb 2009, 19:52
by ACTIVE8
CitroJim wrote:Good work Mike :D Alweays a good idea to replace those little 3.5mm seals with new ones in any case. They're available from GSF and cost pennies.

Not seen the nut size difference although I could hve swaorn all the ones I've done were 24mm. I say that as I was scratching around for a 25mm socket the other day for a different job and it's one size I don't have..

FatherJack noticed a difference in handling on his after replacement but one of his strut tops was really bad; on the verge of letting go..

Did either of yours look anything like this?

Image
Looking at the edge these strut tops are not exactly thin!

So, are they the same thickness up to the point where they corrode?

If they are as thick, then why are they so prone to issues with corrosion?

Is lack of protection from Citroen I.E. decent quality paint, more responsible for the problem, than exposure to damp which occurs in that area?

Posted: 26 Feb 2009, 20:11
by CitroJim
They start off pretty thick but those in the picture had gone so thin they'd gone through in holes..

I reckon the problem is that moisture gets between the rubber covering on the lower side of the plate and the steel and corrosion sets in. The seem to corrode from the bottom up and not top-down as I've never seen water lying on the top despite there being a lip.

A good coat of underbody wax (say something like Dynax S-50) realliped as needed should keep any water out and the corrosion at bay.

Posted: 18 Mar 2009, 23:49
by ACTIVE8
This thread certainly has legs, :wink: and has even had a mention over here back on the GSF forum, where the French Car Forum gets referred to. 8)

Posted: 21 Mar 2009, 17:28
by andmcit
Not another one 'spears or repair'? <sic> :x :(

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CITROEN-XANTIA-19 ... 0364914631

If there was one thing that'll see all Xantiae off the road this would be it.
That and a leaking heater matrix.

Andrew

Posted: 21 Mar 2009, 17:45
by CitroJim
It doesn't look "speared" from the pictures :? Looks more like a general hydraulic failure. Bonnet looks fine and neairther strut apperas to have made a guest appearance...

Shame the vendor did not take the trouble to write a description rather than a throw a jumble of random words at the advert that end up saying very little..
andmcit wrote:If there was one thing that'll see all Xantiae off the road this would be it. That and a leaking heater matrix.
And a dead gearbox in a V6 :roll: :twisted: :lol: :lol: