Bypassing aircon

Johnno · Post by **Johnno** » 18 Aug 2004, 19:33

Excellent idea for a new forum, esp. as this item is increasingly common and not easy for the DIYer.
Can anyone tell me what length belt (and perhaps even the GSF part no.?) I would need in order to bypass the aircon on a 2.1TD Xantia? This will buy me some time until I can source a replacement compressor.
Thanks,

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 18 Aug 2004, 23:19

God knows what the answer is - but the correct belt is a 6PK1736 for the 2.1. Your best bet would be to take the belt off and thread a piece of string round in place of the belt, then measure it.

alan s · Post by **alan s** » 19 Aug 2004, 06:58

Unless the compressor is either seized or the pulley off or coming off, why would you need to do this?
It isn't working unless you activate it and if it's a worry that you might, just separate the torpedo connection for the power to its solenoid.
I think the problem you may find fitting a belt and by passing the compressor is that could create problems with the angles it has to take. I don't know your particular model but I do know that I was once sold a belt that by passed the jockey wheel tensioner on my 16V BX and ended up with a belt that screamed no matter how tight I adjusted it.
As John said, a piece of string will give you belt length and this associated with the style of belt (ie) Sepentine X 5 grooves should give you a workable size.
Alan S

Johnno · Post by **Johnno** » 19 Aug 2004, 22:38

The pulley is the problem - it is increasingly noisy and has significant "rock". Only a matter of time before the whole thing goes. Also, although the aircon works (and locking up the clutch removes the pulley noise) I have noted that this has lately begun to be accompanied by a hot, smokey belt - suggesting that the compressor itself is none too happy.
I have considered using the piece of string method, but was hoping that someone had done this before, allowing me to obtain the right part before beginning work, as I intend to do the cam belt and timing at the same time.
It is the 5 groove serpentine - from memory (not that reliable these days!), I don't think a shorter belt would bypass the tensioner wheel.
I'll let you know how I get on.

JohnD · Post by **JohnD** » 19 Aug 2004, 23:23

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Johnno[/i
It is the 5 groove serpentine - from memory
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I think you'll find it's six!

TheWorker · Post by **TheWorker** » 20 Aug 2004, 03:35

even if you do measure with a bit of string, you need to get a belt even shorter by about 30 or 40mm as the tensioner is spring loaded. i think its the one the belt goes under between the crankshaft and the HP pump.

Johnno · Post by **Johnno** » 20 Aug 2004, 22:59

Yes, I wondered about that. I think, looking at the diagram in Haynes, that the tensioner may be the sticking point, as it looks as though bypassing the aircon would result in the belt effectively rubbing against itself due to the angle of attack between the alternator and the crank pulley, with the tensioner in between.
I hope to be looking at it tomorrow.

TheWorker · Post by **TheWorker** » 21 Aug 2004, 03:14

what about if you go round the crank,under the auto tensioner,over the HP pump,then to the alternator and back to the crank under the manual adjuster.try that with the string to see if it clears the A/C or not,but have the square in the adjuster pointing up so you can still make the belt tighter if requiered.

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 21 Aug 2004, 14:49

Speaking purely for my own hybrid system, There are no extra tensioners, because I had to do the job with what was available. Using a short belt has proved to be successful, so is it possible to remove the tensioner and tighten the belt on the alternator instead ?
Getting down to the real problem, Polar Aircon have a website from which they sell repair bits for the compressor and a search for "R12 to R134a conversion" on google yields a De Lorean owner's site with a link to download the complete manual for this series of compressors. They are quite amenable to being fixed and although I'm fairly sure that
you cannot do it in situ, If you are resigned to regassing the plant anyway then you may well be able to repair the unit yourself. It sounds as though the problem is a clutch bearing which costs under £20 and does not involve a stripdown of the compressor itself. Although there are several special tools in the manual, these are there mainly to save time. A little ingeneuity will allow you to work around the need for them. I hope this helps.

Johnno · Post by **Johnno** » 21 Aug 2004, 16:23

Thanks, guys. That's useful info.
Tom, I think you're right about the clutch bearing - the problem has now worsened to the point that, even with the aircon switched off, after about 20 minutes smoke begins to come from the pulley area. Smells a lot like hot clutch material to me! I did assume the clutch/pulley was accessible without dismantling the compressor, hence degas and remove is the next step.
Cheers

Johnno · Post by **Johnno** » 21 Aug 2004, 18:21

Tom, I've searched on Google as you suggested, but although there are seven pages of hits, I haven't been able to locate the De Lorean site you mentioned.
Do you by any chance know the actual site address?
Thanks.

tomsheppard · Post by **tomsheppard** » 21 Aug 2004, 19:39

Yes, and I've just posted it in the useful links section of this forum. Good Luck!

Johnno · Post by **Johnno** » 22 Aug 2004, 15:09

Thanks, Tom. Looks just the ticket!