I am Aneesh from Portugal. I own a Citroen Xantia 1.9 TD (1994). Recently my AC compressor stopped working. I refilled the gas into the system but still have the same problem. I thought maybe the pressure switch is defective, and replaced it with one from a friend's car, but it still doesnt work.
To check things further I bought a multimeter today and checked all the contacts of the pressure switch.
My understanding of the pressure switch goes as follows. Please correct me if I am wrong. Contacts 1 and 2 should form the compressor clutch activation circuit while 3 and 4 should form the fan high speed switch. So, under normal conditions, contacts 1 and 3 should be supplied with 12 V DC. Under normal operations, the pressure switch contacts 1 and 2 should be normally closed and contacts 3 and 4 should be normally open.
Test Results
Now only the pin wire 3 has 12 V supply. Hence 1 is not receiving 12 V supply. seems like maybe some sensor somewhere is cutting of supply to pin 1. So i think it should not be a relay problem. Could you suggest what sensors are connected in series before the supply reaches pin 1.
Also, when pin 3 and 4 are connected, the fan does not start spinning in high speed. I guess this is another problem, but more related to safety than functionality.
Aircon electrical problem
Moderator: RichardW
The pressure switch is working normal, with contacts 1 and 2 as closed conn ections just as it should be. So i pressume it should not be a pressure problem. The problem is that contact 1 at the pressure switch is not receiving 12 V power supply, so it is not able to supply power to contact 2.
However contact 3 is receiving power supply. When i short contacts 2 and 3, the compressor works as normal and the cooling levels are also good.
Also when the AC switch on dashboard is pressed, the radiator fans start working at normal speed so its also not a problem with the AC switch.
However contact 3 is receiving power supply. When i short contacts 2 and 3, the compressor works as normal and the cooling levels are also good.
Also when the AC switch on dashboard is pressed, the radiator fans start working at normal speed so its also not a problem with the AC switch.
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- Sara Watson's Stalker
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Pin 3 always receives 12V as it feeds from F2. At 17 and 26 bar it allows 12V to Pin 4, which triggers the Bitron to operate fans.
At 2.6 bar and less, it doesn't. I think this is because 2.6 bar is considered inadequate gas pressure for successful AC operation.
Pin 1 connects to Pin 2 (this pin ultimately switches on the compressor) at 2.6 and 17 bar only. so, by sending 12V (pin 3 to the clutch (via pin 2) you have proved one of the relays (violet socket) is fine!
I would suggest that possibly either the other aircon relay (black socket), Bitron or A/C ECU is faulty. The reason I can't suggest one or the other of these two controllers is I'm not sure which one supplies the signal and which responds. Check this relay first anyhow.
At 2.6 bar and less, it doesn't. I think this is because 2.6 bar is considered inadequate gas pressure for successful AC operation.
Pin 1 connects to Pin 2 (this pin ultimately switches on the compressor) at 2.6 and 17 bar only. so, by sending 12V (pin 3 to the clutch (via pin 2) you have proved one of the relays (violet socket) is fine!
I would suggest that possibly either the other aircon relay (black socket), Bitron or A/C ECU is faulty. The reason I can't suggest one or the other of these two controllers is I'm not sure which one supplies the signal and which responds. Check this relay first anyhow.
Thank you addo. Can you please tell me where exactly is the aircon relay. Is it on the driver's side, behind the fuse box. Can you tell me how i can spot it.addo wrote:Pin 3 always receives 12V as it feeds from F2. At 17 and 26 bar it allows 12V to Pin 4, which triggers the Bitron to operate fans.
At 2.6 bar and less, it doesn't. I think this is because 2.6 bar is considered inadequate gas pressure for successful AC operation.
Pin 1 connects to Pin 2 (this pin ultimately switches on the compressor) at 2.6 and 17 bar only. so, by sending 12V (pin 3 to the clutch (via pin 2) you have proved one of the relays (violet socket) is fine!
I would suggest that possibly either the other aircon relay (black socket), Bitron or A/C ECU is faulty. The reason I can't suggest one or the other of these two controllers is I'm not sure which one supplies the signal and which responds. Check this relay first anyhow.
Thank you
Today I checked all the relays i could find both under the dashboard and under the bonnet. All of the relays except one orange relay located behind the fusebox under the steering wheel, are working. Do you think it could be the orange one?addo wrote:It is probably in the fusebox located to the left side (when viewed from behind) under your "capot". I have a Ph.2 car, where the layout is slightly different.
I just took off all relays one by one and applied voltage to check them.
I pressume you are referring to relay 8015 in this circuit diagram?
http://www.eastment.net/xanwd/mk2achv.jpg
Also one more question, is 8010 (Refrigeration coolant temerature control unit according to haynes) the same as the bitron or is it somehing else?
By the way, 8007 is the pressostat and 8020 is the compressor clutch.
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- Sara Watson's Stalker
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Yes, you correctly identified the Bitron unit as 8010.
The other relay I mentioned is 8015. The way to positively identify this one, is to look at the numbers on its feed wires; at least three of them should start with 807.
Rather than checking the relay itself works, you need to look for supply voltage at the wire C020, and a ground conductance when engine running and AC switch pressed on, for wire 8075.
The other relay I mentioned is 8015. The way to positively identify this one, is to look at the numbers on its feed wires; at least three of them should start with 807.
Rather than checking the relay itself works, you need to look for supply voltage at the wire C020, and a ground conductance when engine running and AC switch pressed on, for wire 8075.
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Re: Aircon electrical problem
We have access to all RHD Xantia wiring diagrams if you can describe which ones you need.
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1995 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD S1 - M728 GDL VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff]
1996 Citroen Xantia 1.9TD SX S1 - N707 MGP (Currrently laid up)
2000 Citroen Xantia 2.0 HDi S2 - X435 JGJ VF7**************[VIN obfuscated, can be read by forum staff] (Clutch died Dec 2017 - Resurrected Easter Sunday 2021)
1997 Citroen ZX SX TD - P788 AJL
1959 Landrover Defender S2 - Two owners from new
1968 Triumph Vitesse Convertible 2.0
1980 Ford Escort RS2000 Customer - 2nd Owner
1988 Saab 900 T16S - A 1980's exercise in understated Hooliganism...
Oh! and two Harley Davidsons - A 1990 Sportster and a 2003 Fatboy 100th Anniversary (the only vehicle I have owned from new) - x 80
Re: Aircon electrical problem
I've got the ones for RHZ with air con from RP 8001 onwards (although my car is 8744 so there is likely another set of electrical manuals that I haven't actually got!).
It would be useful to know what diagrams Cloggz posted about back in 2011 but I am guessing there is no way of knowing which model he was posting about at that time. At least then I would be able to work out which wires to bridge just in case something has changed between Colin's HDi 90 and my HDi 109.
EDIT: OP mentions 1994 car with air con. I do have official manuals for 1994 I believe so I can check the diagrams in that but slight concern is that Cloggz images which are no longer available are not from official manual by looks of it.