Rad on P306 DT

Post your Cit/Peu/Ren air conditioning queries or advice.

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grattsim
Posts: 89
Joined: 13 Mar 2004, 21:26

Rad on P306 DT

Post by grattsim » 16 Jan 2006, 14:31

Hi

I've just had my Air con regassed, well tried to anyway. Under the leak test it showed a hole in the Rad.

Therefore could someone please tell me how bigger job it is to replace and roughly how much this should cost?

I take it there are no ways of plugging the hole, like you would with a normal water rad?

thanks

alan s
RIP 2010
Posts: 2542
Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 16:53

Post by alan s » 18 Jan 2006, 20:45

THe part you're talking about is referred to as a 'condensor' and is usually made of aluminium.
I have seen them MIG and TIG welded, however, there's a few things worth remembering.
Firstly, it is aluminium, not the kind of stuff you take to someone who welds like someone sticking chewing gum on or the weld will fall off.
The pressures it works under can be up to 400 psi+ but normally around 200 is common, so the weld has to be solid and gas tight.
If the hole is there due to a stone or something punching a hole in, there is a chance it can be welded but if it's due to corrosion; forget it as the pin hole will grow to fingernail size as the weld melts it out.
Be sure to get a few quotes to supply a new one if necessary as although I don't have a price in my catalogue for one for a 306, various models for the 405 vary from A$300 - A$1100.
As regards fitting; with the system empty, it should just be a couple of refrigeration lines (one top, one bottom) as well as a couple of bolts to remove. Keep end for refrigerant sealed off until it is finally installed to prevent any moisture contaminating the system. Fit new (green) "O" rings to any refrigerant lines removed and refitted. Fit a new receiver/dryer.
Entire job should be less than an hour unless things are awkward to get to.
You'll need your air/con guy to evacuate the system and regas it.
Hope that answers all you questions.


Alan S

grattsim
Posts: 89
Joined: 13 Mar 2004, 21:26

Post by grattsim » 19 Jan 2006, 19:18

Thanks for the info.

Do you know if the Condensor will come out without taking the coolant radiator out, i.e if you take the slam panel off?
Or as I suspect does the Coolant rad need to come out as well so you can take it all out backwards under the slam panel?

Are there any special tools needed? What type of clips sercue the lines to it?

Thanks for the help

Simon :shock:

grattsim
Posts: 89
Joined: 13 Mar 2004, 21:26

Post by grattsim » 23 Jan 2006, 12:58

I've read some of the other posts and am interested if it were possible to remove and refit without having to take any part to the dealer to detach.

Be fore I start takings things apart it would be also useful to know whether its possible to change it without having to take the Main Rad out..

Any comments would be helpful.

Thanks

alan s
RIP 2010
Posts: 2542
Joined: 26 Jan 2001, 16:53

Post by alan s » 23 Jan 2006, 13:13

I really don't know the layout on a 306, but with a BX the 8 valve has the condensor behind the upper crossmember and the 16V in front of, so it's easier to do a 16 over an 8.
Just use a bit of common sense with it and if all else fails, use one of my favourite tricks and drain the coolant into a bucket (and keep it well away from dogs and cats as it kills them) and reuse it. Top it up with 95% glycol and distilled water.


Alan S