Dead Air Con

Post your Cit/Peu/Ren air conditioning queries or advice.

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Linchpin
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Dead Air Con

Post by Linchpin » 12 May 2005, 16:21

Hey.. not sure if i posted this before... here goes.
306 XSi, P reg, no air con.
Press the button, light comes on, no fan, no nice cold air :-(
Any idea?
Cheers
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Post by alan s » 12 May 2005, 17:56

Can you hear the compressor cut in?
When you say fan, do you mean inside fan or outside?
If it's the outside, possibly short of gas. Inside, look for a fuse followed by a dodgy electrical connection or switch.
Alan S
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Post by Linchpin » 12 May 2005, 21:21

Thanks for the reply.
I have checked the fuse in the interior fuse box, thats OK.
Basically i get nothing. No fans at all. Compressor dosent kick in at all.
Kev
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Post by fastandfurryous » 13 May 2005, 00:30

Does sound like it's just low on gas and the low pressure cut out switch is preventing the system from doing anything. That's good because if the compressor was to run, it would probably suck in some air and self-destruct. But it's also bad, as it means you have no gas. Any aircon specialist can do an R134a recharge. Bet on between £60 and £100 dependent on where you go.
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Post by Linchpin » 13 May 2005, 00:38

Well... its P reg. And never been gassed. So i guess its over due :-)
A guy around by me does it for £50. I guess thats not bad.
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Post by alan s » 13 May 2005, 03:16

Before you saddle up to a regas, it is possible to bridge the switch out momentarily to see if the solenoid clicks in. If you do that, then you know where you're at with it.
Just be sure that the guy doing the regas can get access to all the fittings and as a double check, run over all the connections and look out for any signs of oil stains near the fittings.
Unfortunately it seems these days where we are supposedly that so much more environmentally concious that where mechanics in my day fastidiously ran over every joint and connection with a leak detector, these days they seem to just recharge, whack a tracer dye in (looked upon as a last resort in my day) and send you on your way and only fixing the leak either as a last resort after a few trips back to get it regassed or if they fall over it by accident. The number I hear of where the repairer hasn't even bothered to go looking for the leak is unbelieveable. Be particularly certain you give him access to the T/X valve as that is often the source of leaks after a lay off for winter.
Most joints that weep or leak will be due to "O" rings needing replacing and these have to be green ones not the black variety to be R134a compatable.
Alan S
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Post by Kowalski » 13 May 2005, 04:16

My Dad used to look after several refrigeration plants, the biggest had several tonnes of R12 in them. He kept the systems in good condition so that he didn't need to buy ANY refrigerant at all, if he got any sort of leak he'd be out with the leak detector straight away and kept the system absolutely gas tight. He started out with ammonia systems and doesn't like breathing amonnia, hence he's a bit pedantic about leaks...
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Post by Linchpin » 13 May 2005, 04:55

Any idea how to bridge the switch?
Ill try that 1st.
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Post by alan s » 13 May 2005, 05:06

That's correct; these systems don't <b>use</b> refrigerant (gas) they <b>lose</b> it.
The really big issue that they never seem to mention is that apart from the environmental ones and the cost factor, I have seen it reported (not in any front page stories of course - can't have a small thing like this affect the multi nationals balance sheets) that R134a is carcenogenic and has been found to cause testicular cancer.
If this is the case, then how irresponsible is it for repairers to be pumping a kilo of this into the system to potentially blow it straight into your face if the leak is in the region of the evaporator?
Alright I suppose if you hold any ambitions to be lead soprano in the Vienna Boys Choir.[:D][:0][:0]
This is why I always make a deal out of getting them to find the leak and fix it instead of just dropping another charge in that will inevitably leak out again if the leak isn't found.
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Post by alan s » 13 May 2005, 05:16

<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Linchpin</i>

Any idea how to bridge the switch?
Ill try that 1st.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
There should be 4 wires to it. On mine, it's wires 1 & 2 as marked on the brown connector coming from the switch on top of the receiver/dryer.
One is green whilst the other is blue. That is as per a Cit BX but there's a fairly strong chance yours could be similar.
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Post by Linchpin » 13 May 2005, 05:33

Any idea what reading id get with a meter if i tested it ?
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Post by alan s » 13 May 2005, 10:08

It's a make and break switch so it should just show a full circuit.
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Post by Kowalski » 13 May 2005, 16:28

The switch on the Xantia has 4 green wires going into it, one thick pair and one thin pair. The thick pair seems to control high/low pressure cut out, and the thin pair puts the cooling fans into high temperature "panic" mode.
I bridged the thick pair with my multimeter and 7 amps flowed through it.
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Post by Linchpin » 13 May 2005, 18:40

And im looking for the compressor for this? excuse my ignorance... :-)
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Post by Kowalski » 13 May 2005, 20:04

No, on the Xantia its on top of the dryer bottle. This is a cylinder about 4 inches in diamter, 6 inches deep with a pipe going into the top of it (where the switch is) and a second pipe coming out of the side of it. On the Xantia this is in the front of the engine bay on the off side.
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